The Cartouche Cafe in the 12th: Why are folks flocking here?

 

6.7 Café Cartouche, 4, rue de Bercy in the 12th, 01.40.19.09.95, closed Saturday noon and Sundays, a la carte about 30 €, is another new offshoot, this of Rodolphe Paquin's Repaire de Cartouche, that super place up near the Winter Circus.

I've been meaning to come since it opened in March but the lack of enthusiastic reviews and opportunities retarded my chance til today - silly boy.  It's great.

I'll presume you've been to the Repaire so you know the style - terrines, gutsy meats and delicate fish, no artifice, no bullshit, just solid cooking.

I started with a fricasee of girolles, I mean how can one not?  They were delicious; tasty, nicely offset with a tart (I guess vinegar based) peppery sauce that I scooped up every morsel with, using his good bread.

Then I had another dish obvious for me: ris d'agneau with mushrooms of Paris and cocos, again in a wonderful dark rich sauce quite sopable,

I ended with roasted figs with cream, oh my.

(Additional notes: they served folks outside a bottle of rose wine in a cool plastic bag; they have a daily special (today sausage) with 50 cl of wine for 15 E and a two course menu for 19 E.)

My bill with a half-liter carafe and no coffee or bottled water was 43 Euros.

Go?  This place reminds me of Biche au Bois under the ancien regime, so definately.  I'll be interested to see whhat they do with game.

Comments

[Dawn]

John,

I've been reading your blog for a while now, and am now following you on Chowhound (I am sistereurope who lives outside Baltimore)
Anyway, my husband is in Paris and just had a fabulous meal at the Cartouche Cafe tonight, all thanks to you. I sent him your review and his text was "this is perfect, just what I wanted." He had a terrine, the farcie de grouse and the figs and loved it all. Thanks so much!

I came home from Brussels yesterday while he returned to Paris for work...we spent a week in Belgium and prior to that 4 nights in Paris. We enjoyed A La Biche Au Bois (great value, that biche was to die for!), and Au Petit Mauguery, which my game lovin husband adored. I rely on your reviews so I will check back with you in Dec when I'm lucky enough to be back in Paris with my mom and some friends...I will need some more advice! We're staying in an apartment in rue Lepic.
Best,
Dawn

[John Talbott]

Thank you so very much; this is the sort of comment that makes writing the blog fun. By December there should be some more new places. I live just down the hill from Lepic, cool neighborhood. Mon Oncle is a fine place if you can get them to guarantee they'll be there the day you reserve. And I liked Le Cafe qui Parle much better than Colette and Diapason better than the RFC (real food critic).
Cheers,
John

[Dawn]

I like Le Cafe qui Parle too...it's on the list. I look forward to future posts. thanks again!