5.0 Fabrique 4, 17, rue Brochant in the 17th, 01.58.59.06.47, open 7/7, is a place that opened a long time ago (April maybe) and I noted got 2/4 in Fig and 3/5 in ANP, but it always slipped down in my list and so finally, during the rentree, I got to it. And I'm glad I did.
It's in the area so bursting with new restos it almost rivals the Rue Paul Bert, but sticks out like a sore thumb among the other dumps; not grungy, not adolescent; no, it's chic, with cool F4 lettering/logos and a decidedly upscale/adult atmosphere. The menu maintains the tone; it's almost ununderstandable until you figure out the language.
Anyway, I ordered for a first the chipirons with pesto, salad and was it tiede diced turnip? Terrific.
Then I had an enormous portion of veal kidneys in a slightly untraditional sauce on top of thinly sliced potatoes Dauphinois; altho it was much too much, I had most of it.
I terminated with the black and white chocolate dish; a mousse of regular chocolate with a cream of white chocolate, toasted almond slices and crushed chocolate cookies and a caramelized treat to boot. My!
I then had to decompress with a double cafe serre, which with wine (one point minus for coming from a cheap box, plus the dreadful bread) and no bottled water = 44.50 Euros. (Oh Lord, I just realized they forgot to charge me 3 E for the coffee; so say 47.50 E.) I'll reimburse them, I swear M.A.M., don't taser me.
Go? Well, this is another John Whiting type place, honest, good, fine product, eager young people, perhaps over-priced but unclassifiable because it's in a part of the 17th that absent the Olympics in 1012, will be forgotten in 10 years.
*Forcing me to write an essay on the subject.
O.K., you force my hand. Next visit.
Posted by: John Whiting | September 10, 2009 at 06:23 PM