6.5 Le Bistrot de l'Alycastre, 2, rue Clément in the 6th, 01.43.25.77.66, is open everyday, with only one chef, the self-taught Jean-Marc Lemmery, exCap Vernet at the piano, who had revived this space with his own hands – it was formerly called Le Bistrot d'Alex and also has one commis and two ladies in the front room and terrace.
This is another place you’ve passed a thousand times walking near the Marche St Germain and never noticed. But it got a very nice writeup the day I went in, in Les Echos and for a place open only 2 ½ weeks really has its act together. M Lemmery has an eclectic and broad historical taste: the lighting fixtures are ancient, the chairs 1950’s and the walls brand new edgy purple.
The ardoise, as advertised, is full of the market’s plenty. I chose the giant gambas (great, toasty flavor) with a tasty minced shallot sauce and teeny slices of veggies that I originally assumed were spagettini, but I could equally have opted for the sauteed foie gras.
Then I chose not the fish, (of which there were many choices) but the wonderful scallops a la plancha with chopped mushrooms in rice (thank goodness not the weak attempt at risotto usually tried here and in the US).
Since I was on a roll, I went with the 1/2 a St Felicien which was fully ripe and delicious but surprisingly cold. Wines start at 3.90 the glass and 18 € the bottle.
The bill for pricey gambas, pricey scallops, ½ a St Felicien and two glasses of wine = 49.50 €.
Something wrong: oh the music was horrible but was mercifully low and once the room filled, inaudible.
Should one go? I will and drag Colette and the gang too.
*Originally published in April 2007.
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