Is it fair to judge a place by its clientele? : An archival* essay.

I recently ate at a new place called Clarisse* in the 7^th and it brought home a dilemma I face reporting on restaurant meals.  How much does the clientele influence one’s opinion?

Let’s take this meal.  The place is 2 blocks from the American University and in the heart of American boboland, so the cafes and restos are going to be full of Americans.  OK.  I accept that.  But to be subjected to bad acoustics in addition to loud (ugly) Americans is not to be expected.

For about a week, I’ve only heard English spoken once, and that by Brits who kept their voices low.  Part of that’s because when alone, I eat in new places, not yet “discovered” by our compatriots and part of it is because I eat in non-touristy areas.

On some websites there’s considerable discussion of the American/English language snobbism, but sadly, I find that the presence of Americans, correlates strongly with the presence of loud, intrusive conversations.

In this case, the day I was there two American dot-comers, two French buyers of software and one Brit who seemed in the middle, talked non-stop at the top of their voices some thirty feet from me and the acoustics, like in Chartres, enabled their loud conversation to go bingo into my ears (and yes, I tried other secluded corners to no avail). 

Contrast that with a recent meal** at Le Clocher Pereire in the 17^th, where the packed house was 100% French and the music and conversation was animated but muted.  The meal was pleasant and I’m sure I awarded extra points to the place because of the lack of Americans, the presence of good sound-proofing and the polite behavior of the French diners.

Maybe Americans need signs with their immigration forms that indicate that one does not need to speak loudly to be heard and understood.

*Originally published in October 2007 about a meal on 2 October 2007.

**28 Sept 2007.  Paid for both.

My favorite [not nearby] is:

Le Clocher Pereire

42, bvd Pereire 17^th, (Metro: Pereire )

T: 01.44.40.04.15

Closed Saturdays and Sundays

Lunch menu 17, dinner 29 and 38, a la carte 35-50 €.

Comments

[Omid Tavallai]

I went out for dinner in Belleville last night and 90% of the voices I heard were speaking English. Mostly at a respectable volume, however, which surprised me. Perhaps it's a bit of self-hatred, but hearing loud American-accented English is like nails on a chalkboard to me.

Then again, drunk French restaurant patrons (which seems to happen after about half a cocktail, I would generalize) aren't much more pleasant to the ears.

[John Talbott]

Couldn't agree more. Isn't it amazing!

[Bon vivant]

As an American citizen who lives in New York City, I am acquainted with the many variants on "The Ugly American" that populate our city and our country. I am very familiar with the popular sport of denigrating tourists, as it appears to possess a special fondness among us "hardened" New Yorkers who must abide the slings and arrows of outrageous behavior and dress from our country bumpkin visitors. And New Yorkers have termed loutish Europeans who visit our city as "Eurotrash," certainly not a moniker worthy of pride. But it tires me to no end to read rants of this sort by those who place themselves on the pedestal of their own choosing and flaunt whatever brand of "good behavior/taste" they deem worthy of emulating...typically their own. Very very self-serving and narcissistic, however annoying may be the visitors in question that are identified for ridicule. I enjoy your blog entries and your eye for taste, but these snobbish asides offered as assertions of wounded pride ("Imagine....how loud are those Americans, and their grating language..." is just so tasteless and navel-gazing as to make this American want to scream. Given that I'll be in Paris in a few weeks' time, perhaps you'll hear my piercing voice at a table near you.

[John Talbott]

After living 25 years in New York before 20 in Paris, I thought I was hardened. Snobbish maybe but Western European and Asian visitors do not raise their voices in French restos.