6.0 Les Fines Gueules, 43, rue Croix des Petits Champs in the 1st, (Metro: Les Halles), 01.42.61.35.41, is open everyday (including in July and August) and has recently undergone a change in chefs to a Japanese guy (according to the last A Nous Paris before the Great Flight). It seems totally unchanged - seamlessly transitioning from one chef to another; which is all to the good, since the original formula - good product, well cooked, presented in a pleasant manner by friendly staffers - worked well when it opened in April 2007 and has stood the test of time.
I started with beautifully-marinated ceviche of sardines with chopped tomatoes and lovely greens and then moved on to the chunk of cochon, crisp on the fatty outside and tender and tasty on the lean inside with a huge amount of sauteed girolles. As with before, the bread and butter were first class, but I was less "in my face'd" by the labelling of where each and every product came from (now that everyone in town advertises origins, farms and butchers, it's reached overkill proportions.)
My bill with two glasses of fine Anjou and coffee amounted to 43.50 E.
Go? If you liked it then, you'll like it now. The formula works.
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