Monday/Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the Italian Senza Parole, and his compatriot Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to the wine bar Vingt Heures Vin, 15/17 rue Joseph de Maistre in the 18th, 09.54.66.50.67, serving dinner only with (it sounds like mostly cold food) foie gras, salads, bad bread and an upscale tartine for about 20 E.
And Tuesday, in Le Fooding, there’s a review of the Restaurant Saturne, 17 rue Notre Dame des Victoires in the 2nd, 01.42.60.31.90, lunch menu 35 €, dinner, 37 € for 4 courses, 59, run by a former chef at Racines and the former sommelier of Racines & La Muse Vin which serves up leeks, oysters, pintade and a chocolate tart.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave 3/3 hearts to two places: the Japanese Bizan, in the 2nd which has had another change of chefs and Le 39 V in the George-V, 39 avenue G-V in the 8th, 01.56.62.39.05, closed weekends, running one 50-60 a la carte, with menus at lunch at 39.50 and 49.50 E for sushi bass, free range chicken with shrimp, and red fruit with sabayon. He also judged two places as 1/3 hearts: a champagne bar Point Bulles, 7, rue Clement in the 6th, 01.46.33.00.47, open 7/7 costing 30-40 E in addition to bubbly for lamb tartare, grilled coquelet and flan as well as Bistro & Terroir, 97, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.56.62.39.05, closed Saturday dinner and Sundays, which not only took over the space of Les Terrines de Gerard Vie but their formula as well of terrines and stews as well as andouillette and bass. Finally he gave a busted heart to Mystery, 37 bis, rue de Montpensier in the 1st, 01.40.20.03.02, only open for dinner and closed Sundays and Mondays serving inflatedly priced wines and lobster soup, lamb-burger and pathetic pho on 39, 59 and 99 E menus.
Figaroscope’s Dossier this week was terribly clever. It was called “What to do when the place you call is fully booked” and it listed where to go (on the left) if the place on the right was filled:
Claude Colliot - KGB
Repaire de Cartouche - Bistrot Paul Bert
Regalade XIV - Comptoir du Relais
Toyo - Guilo Guilo
Maison Blanche - Jules Verne
British sandwich - Rose Bakery
L’Entredgeu - l’Ami Jean
Le Rouquet - Flore
At the end of the article they give several tips:
1. Call the day of your desired meal
2. Book for the 3rd service after 10:30 PM
3. Go Tuesday or Wednesday not at the end of the week
4. If all else fails call up saying you represent a Minister or head of state or disgraced soccer player.
Francois Simon went to Passage 53 in the 2nd where he says to go despite the hefty 259 E freight for two if Yam’Tcha is booked.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse in ParisUpdate reviewed a new supermarket/deli/resto called Ethnic Angel, 16, rue du Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th, 01 82 50 20 10, restaurant closed Sundays, a la carte about 30 € where he says “Pros: Pleasant shopping space, great wine list, staff that see you; Cons: Restaurant service not quite up to scratch, canned music.”
This week in l’Express, Francois-Regis Gaudry named as his resto of thr week L'Artémise in Uzès and Marie-Amal Bizalion reviewed l’Auberge de Jable in Lémeré.
Last weekend’s Figaro published Francois Simon’s Croque Notes on Jean François Issautier, in Saint-Martin-du-Var and this week some places where the critic Jean-Pierre Gene likes to eat – Au Bascou in Paris being one.
This week in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote about Eric Frechon’s taking over the oversight of the Mini Palais restaurant and John Talbott wrote an essay entitled “Three Tours: Paul Chassé's, de France and d'Argent.”
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