Les Grandes Tables du 104 is a place I was dazzled by a couple of weeks ago and ferried Colette and a favorite cousin to today for a repeat.
There were several changes; the place's primary salle was packed, the menu was totally different (I know it says soir but it was for lunch), the menu now clearly now says it is that of 3-star chef, Fabrice Biasiolo of Astaffort in Gascony but G/M said October 6th he's due to soon run l'hôtel du Square there and an industry newsletter reveals that his Auberge en Gascogne reopens early next year - busy guy. On the other hand, several things remain the same: they have another 20-hour meat, the wines are still reasonable and the crowd is very young and eclectic.
Our cuz D. had the veggie tempura at the top, Colette had a butternut squash soup with chorizo and I went for the globulous veal's head with an acidic peanut sauce - all quite tasty.
Then for mains from top to bottom we had the cote de veau, merlu and 20-hour beef; not nearly as dazzling as last visit.
The desserts, however, were another matter altogether; back to the dazzling level with a chocolate wrap, banana "smoothie" [I kid not] and a "tiramisu" that was not only deconstructed but of which each part astonished.
I do not know what our bill was this time since D. graciously picked it up in return for some crummy advice, crummy chicken and a crummy carnet of Metro-Bus tickets. But the "menu" at lunch remains 28 E.
Go? If you're going to a cultural event at 104 I'd say yes but I do hope Fabrice Biasiolo returns to shape up the sagging middle of the menu.
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