Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris had much about food: with the cover and articles about TV shows, the International Festival of culinary photography next week and a book on culinary design as well as their usual two reviews: Jerome Berger gave 3/5 dots to the Le Bistrot des Jumeaux, 129, rue du Chateau in the 14th, 01.43.27.32.56, closed Mondays and brunch on Sundays, running one 16 E for a lunch formula or about 30 E a la carte, serving ox tail with lentils, chicken breast and a nectarine crumble; and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to the Italian L’Oenosteria, in the 6th – with a brief note as well about another Italian place - Ciasa Mia in the 5th.
Tuesday in Le Fooding, Gregoire Maurel discussed two actor-related events: the first the opening of Gerard Depardieu’s latest venture – a cave à manger Le Bien Décidé, 117, rue du Cherche-midi in the 6th, 01 45 48 39 28, open only from 12 noon to 7 PM and closed weekends serving such fare as foie gras with sweet spices, magret, quail and a tatin or cheese which are a bit pricey (about 40 E a la carte) while the wines are not – and run one 3.50-4 E a glass. The second event is an ephemeral visit by Nobu Matsuhisa at the Ritz on the rue Cambron where the addition is described as murderous.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin’s tested five restos in Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau and judged two places 2/3 hearts: Grandes Tables du 104 coordinates given before, where he mentions a mussels and cabbage salad, veal breast and brioche as well as 37 M2, coordinates given before, where for 15-30 E one has prk with sticky rice, sweet-sour chicken and a chocolate fondant. Two other places merited 1/3 hearts: another Cantine des Tontons this on Mouton-Duuvernet in the 15th and the wine bar Wine by one, 9 rue des Capucines in the 1st, 01.42.60.05.76, closed Sundays and Mondays, serving microwaved tartines and wines. A busted heart went to Ethnic Angel, coordinates given before.
‘Scope’s Dossier this week by Monsat et al, discussed where to eat on the run, have a good bistrot meal, eat a gastronomic meal or have a glass of wine in tourist zones:
The Champs Elysees
Aubrac Corner
Cave Beauveau
39V
Bar Anglais du Raphael
Opera
Petit Vendome
Bistro Volnay
Bizan
Duke’s Bar
Montmartre
Alice Pizza
Caves des Abbesses
Mon Oncle
Chamarre Montmartre
L’Hotel Particulier
Saint Andre des Arts
l’Avant Comptoir
Roger la Grenouille
KGB
Chai de l’Abbaye
Notre Dame
La Charlotte de l’Isle
Mon Viel Ami
Isami
Zyriab
Mouffetard
les Pipos
Christophe
Delices d’Aphrodite
Café de la Mosquee
And Francois Simon went to the Laperouse in the Saint Andre des Arts/Buci area which he says one must go to once.
There was also an article by Elvira Masson on places that serve bio/equitable/durable food: Mini-Palais, Auguste, Mosca libre, Puerto Cacao + Quinoe.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse of Paris Update reviewed Moustache,coordinates given before, where he deemed it to have “Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant décor,” but “Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey.”
Last week, in l’Express, Anne-Laure Pham discussed four ephemeral restaurants in Paris: Chez l’Ami Tripier, La Table du Pelican, Aberlour Hunting Club & Nomiya and Pierrick Jegu discussed four Corsican places A Loghja, Terra Corsa, L'Alta Rocca + A Casaluna.
Thursday, in the throw-away 20 Minutes, Ingrid Gallou talked about the flavors of tomorrow mentioning wasabi cheese, pine syrup and banana wine among 985 innovations.
Saturday-Sunday Francois Simon’s Croque Notes in Figaro discussed Le Petit Cedre, in Vulaines-sur-Seine and in other articles Gerard Besson and Les Bezards in Bolsmorand as places to go for game.
Sunday, Astrid T’Serclaes in the JDD reviewed Veramente, and Marie Nicot published one on chefs who use strong/foreign flavoring mentioning – Olivier Roellinger, Adeline Grattard & Pascal Barbot.
In Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published an article that includes her thoughts on Lasserre and John Talbott published an essay called “Is French Food Dead or Dying?”
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