After Daniel Rose's Spring opened/reopened this summer, the highlight after the rentree for me was the opening of Saturne. I had sold Colette on how great it was but after a comment on my blog about how I could be overenthusiatic about some places, I tried to turn down her expectations.
They are still warmly welcoming, still noisy as hell once the place fills up but have changed in that the previously unfinished bar/eating/wine rack area in the front room is now chock-a-block full of wait-staff, customers, tables and wines on the wall. It's very warm.
As before, their 35 E "menu" has 2/2/2 choices and Colette (predictably) started with the raw sliced scallops that she deemed needed salt (PS on exiting, as I was thanking sommelier Ewan Lemoigne for another nice meal, chef Sven Chartier asked if there wasn't enough salt on them? - wow, what an eye). The scallops came with a few greens and what seemed to be microscopic grains of frozen tomato. I had the champignons (cold) aux champignons (sauteed), such a simple dish and so good.
Then she (predictably) ordered the St Pierre, mange-touts and scallion - with no sauce, that I considered quite good. I (predictably) had the veal, a large perfectly cooked wedge that may have been the best I've ever had, with two types of onions, greens and a baked-concoction of I don't know what - again with no sauce.
Again, quite predictably, I ordered the mandolined aged conte and she the apple with ice cream and tuile - wonderful.
The bill? With a bottle and glass of wine (for the cheese natch), no bottled water but two coffees with their fabulous crispcrusted madeleines - it was 105 E.
Go? If the hottest chef in town says this is the cuisine of tomorrow, who am I to disagree?
Who's the hottest chef in town ??? Tell us ....
Posted by: Embee | October 29, 2010 at 10:57 PM
I expect you can find out by reading Figaro 11/12/2008.
Posted by: John Talbott | October 29, 2010 at 11:03 PM
well........ i LOVE Racine's way with food. that kitchen seems to have perfected the use of simple techniques to bring out the best in meats and poultry.
so it was with great relish that we reserved dinner for 4 to impress our guests (from Portland OR) at Saturne. first off, the room lets you know that the chef is "movin' on up" and when i saw him inspecting herbs in the open kitchen i knew we were in for a great meal. What a disappointment! the wine was some sort of random organic thing that the sommelier basically intimidated us into taking explaining that it was for 'discriminating palettes' (?) okay, but you had warned about sommeliers in general these days pushing price over appropriateness. But the meal was so uninspired and had imappropriate random flourishes like for instance a wafer thin slice of turnip or white radish (i'm not sure which) that, in the words of one of our Portland friends "It just gets in the way of an otherwise good piece of meat". The desserts were fine but nothing to go back for. I have been reading your posts for a couple of years and find that we have pretty much the same taste in restos so i'll figure that you went on a better day or ordered well. but i wont' be going back to Saturne unless someone else wants to and pays for it.
Posted by: Robin | January 03, 2011 at 11:40 AM
I had lunch at Saturne in December with friends, 3 of us, and it was fantastic, the food was so fresh and tasty, and the wine, which was the first reason I went there, was a festival of delicious natural wine. We let the sommelier drive and it was the best decision. We tried a Pineau d'Aunis among others that was outstanding, and a few other varietals like a Savagnin that was deliciously paired with the Comte! Everything was perfect. I can't wait to go when I am back in Paris. I'am glad you liked it Mr Talbott.
Posted by: Carlos Camacho | February 04, 2011 at 07:43 PM
Indeed, twice, it was only my precious wife who was contrary.
Best wishes, happy eating,
John
Posted by: John Talbott | February 04, 2011 at 08:46 PM