It has been said in/on the blogosphere that Astier is nothing better than an American touristic-Disneyland resto as well as that we bloggers hype places collectively when they open or change hands and (implied is the implication that we never return to confirm or revise our original enthusiastic impression(s)).
When Astier changed hands in 2006 and came under the new team from the Cafe Moderne, I went and rated it a 7.5/10 and subsequently revisited it to my satisfaction, the latest time in January 2009.
Today we were actually en route to Jeanne A. where I'd had a fine (7.0/10) meal last week (in which review I neglected to mention a problem with the motion-controlled door, prompting a brief blackout) but today apparently it went totally haywire and in the window was a sign "Closed exceptionally, sorry."
Ohhhh boy, what to do? Well, we'd passed an interesting looking wine bar and a Mexican place and Lord knows how many other Bobo hangouts near Oberkampf. But no.
So I walked next door to the mothership Astier, also open on Sundays, and threw myself on the boss's mercy, giving him my pathetic excuse for not having reserved there but rather at Jeanne A. After a quick look at the rez book, we were seated at Table #8, my usual. The menus are still very reasonably priced - 20.50 E for two, 26.50 E for three courses.
I ordered an aspic of ecrevisses with a tangily-dressed green salad and espilette sauce and Man was it tasty (Colette agreed, eating about a third of it.) She said I should tell you both types of bread were good as well.
Then she had the filet of daurade Dieppoise (cooked in white wine, and served with mussels and a white wine sauce) and I had the pintade stuffed with pleurottes with a few of such and turnips served with the bird - both terrific.
For dessert she chose the special, an apple tarte which she deemed ordinary while the ice cream was good; while I judged my Baba au rhum pretty darn good and the whipped cream extraordinary.
The super Illy coffee came with peaked madeleines.
Our bill with a bottle of wine, no bottled water and the two coffees was 82 E (maybe not the 68 E it was in '06 but not bad either).
Go? This will go on my Price-Quality Ratio of 2010 Golden Oldie list. And they should get extra points or at least special mention for squeezing us in without a reservation; in addition, the wait staff were particularly attentive and pleasant.
P.S. And forget the rumor that it's all Anglos; we heard Franglais spoken at only one table.
I am so pleased to read this, as I was saddened by the negatives posted during the last couple of years. I must assume you passed on the cheeses; some years back I discovered double cream Chaource, but recent reports have been unfavorable.
Posted by: Laidback | November 28, 2010 at 04:55 PM
We did pass on the cheese platter; I usually take them up on it but today we decided enough was enough.
Posted by: John Talbott | November 28, 2010 at 05:13 PM
John,
To those who complain that food bloggers generally do not revisit restaurants (perfect excuse of some restaurateurs and their allies), my answer has always been this: I am not going to revisit a restaurant till it get all things right. A restaurant is either good or not. Back to your review, I too am glad that we get finally a reliable (yours) opinion on this restaurant. As I was writing to you on other posts, I am searching for some casual eateries in Paris in the advent of a possible future visit there. Your opinions have been very helpful
Posted by: S Lloyd | November 28, 2010 at 09:42 PM
Thank you on both points.
Posted by: John Talbott | November 29, 2010 at 08:19 AM