Reviews of reviews: The Week of November 22nd, 2010

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris had two reviews and some news: Jerome Berger went back and gave 4/5 dots to the well-established Relais Louis XIII and Philippe Toinard reviewed and bestowed 3/5 dots on the new team at L’Epigramme, coordinates the same, where the lunch menus are 24 and 28 E for a fricassee of cuttlefish and poached foie gras served cold plus pumpkin soup, lamb shoulder and cod filet.

In a sidebar A Nous Paris announced the next set of guidebooks’ awards;
In Gault-Millau
Adam Benallal of Konfidential “Best of tomorrow”
Remi Van Peteghem of Sensing “Young Talent of 2011”
In the Lebey
Alain Ducasse at the Plaza and Jean-Paul Arabian at Cameleon Salé
Alain Passard’s l’Arpege and Passage 53 Sucré

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Grégoire Maurel reviewed a restaurant that will be named on December 15th but is currently called 31, rue de Paradis, its location, that serves Japanese tapas at night (35 E) and bentos at lunch (20 E) containing items such as black cod tomato sala and a teriyaki burger, pizzas, minced veal cutlet.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin ranked his five new restaurants in Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau as follows: he led off with the photo and 1/3 hearts to L’Etoile Rouge, 75, rue Crozatier in the 12th, 01.53.17.02.44, closed Sunday dinner and Mondays, serving ouef meurette, pheasant hen and apple tart for 40 E at dinner and 25 E at lunch; then awarded 2/4 to the Spanish hotel chain restaurant the Gat Kitchen in the 9th. His remaining three places all merited but 1 /4 hearts: the magrebian Mosaik Sud in the 11th; the charming dinette Le Petit Jacob, 40, rue Jacob in the 6th, 06.25.84.33.15, open 7/7 costing about 15-20 E for a bio terrine of chicken livers, smoked salmon,cucumber and goat cheese and apricot tart; the second Chinese fast vapeured food place Sum Pyramides in the 1st.

Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week by Colette Monsat, et al dealt with the “Best” couscous restaurants:
Zerda Café
L’Atlantide
Le 404 & La Corniche
L’Atlas
Al Mounia
L’Homme Bleu
La Maison de Charly, Chez Omar & La Boule Rouge
And others: Le Globe, El Mansour, Mansouria, Le Mechoui du Price & Au Rendez-Vous.
In addition, Alice Bosio listed places that serve free couscous when one purchases a liquid: Chope de Chateau Rouge, La Cordonnerie, Tribal Café, La Providence, Parisi, Hoggar Café, French K-Wa and Tais
Finally Francois Simon wrote a “Hache Menu” about his 33 E pp meal at La Corniche, in the 8th, which he says he’ll return to.

In this week’s l’Express Francois-Regis Gaudry named as his restaurant of the week La Voile Blanche at the Centre Pompidou-Metz in Metz and Marie-Amal Bizalion reviewed L'Entracte in Aix-en-Provence.

Sunday, in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau mentioned three places in which to eat and sample game:
Le Repaire de Cartouche
Restaurant Gerard Besson
La Biche au Bois.
In addition, Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Felicie in the 14th where one can eat well for lunch on Sunday.

In Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published a piece on the hotel-restaurant Konfidential and John Talbott published as essay entitled “You Want to Choose Your Wine, No Monsieur, We Will Choose it for you.”