Reviews of reviews: The Week of November 29th, 2010

Monday-Tuesday, A Nous Paris had its traditional two 3/5 dot reviews: Philippe Toinard sampled La Terre, 31, rue Coquilliere in the 1st, 01.42.36.74.90, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, which has lunch menus running one from 12.50-18.50 E and features such unpretentious items as a celery soup, a pot au feu of duck and profiteroles; meanwhile Jerome Berger went to 31, Rue de Paradis, coordinates given last week, where he commented on the two salads, cuisse de canard, couscous and banana-caramel tart.

Tuesday in Le Fooding, Grégoire Maurel reviewed a restaurant called Le Casse Noix, 56, rue de la Fédération in the 15th, 01.45.66.09.01, closed weekends chef’d by Pierre-Olivier Lenormand (6 years at La Régalade, and time also at Camelot, Jamin & the Crillon), costing 16 à 35 € (a lunch formula is 20 €, menu 32 €.) and which serves marinated scallops, pork belly and a pot au creme of chocolate.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin ranked his five new restaurants in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau as follows: he led off with the photo and 2/4 hearts to Monsieur Le Prince, 12, rue Monsieur le Prince in the 6th, 01.43.54.74.59, closed Sundays and Mondays which has lunch menus at 17 & 21 E, a la carte about 40 E, commenting on the sautéed encornets, cod with camembert and Clementine parfait; he also gave 2/4 to Le Bistral, coordinates well-known which has a new (Japanese) chef and different prices – a menu at 29; degustation menu at 58 and a la carte for 45-50 E and which serves a veal and coques tartare, lamb with an eggplant puree and Alleose cheeses. Then he judged three places as 1/5 hearts: Konfidential, coordinates given before, commenting on the salmon unilateral, magret de canard and Nepresso cappuccino; the Argentian Volver in the 11th and a “pop-cantine” called Pin Up Kitchen, 23, ave Jean Moulin in the 14th whose hours and availability can only be ascertained by telephoning 01.44.12.44.12 and whose menu has not been firmed up but costs 20-30 E.
Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week by Colette Monsat, et al dealt with the “Best” fondue restaurants:
Les Montagnards
Le Chalet Savoyard
Le Bstrot du Boursier
Pain, Vin, Fromages
Les Fondus de la Raclette
Le Chalet de Neuilly
Le serpent qui dance
La Grolle de Montmartre
Heureux Comme Alexandre
And Francois Simon wrote a “Hache Menu” about his 65 E per couple meal at a Japanese place Kunitoraya.

In this week’s l’Express Francois-Regis Gaudry named as his restaurant of the week Au Trou Gascon the only starred resto in the east of town; in addition, Pierrick Jegu named as his resto for under 30 E 31, rue de Paradis coordinates given before and Marie-Amal Bizalion named as hers Les Ribières in the Creuse.

Sunday, in the JDD Astrid T’Serclaes reviewed Le Verre Vole in the 10th, coordinates given before.

In Bonjour Paris, John Talbott published as essay entitled “Lessons From Eating During the Great Strike of 2010.”