5.8 Playtime, 5, rue des Petits Hotels in the 10th, Metro: Gare de l'Est, 01.44.79.03.98, closed weekends and Monday night, opened a while back and I'm afraid got lost on my list in the midst of summer; too bad, because it's quite good.
The exterior looked like a thousand places in the 1950's and the interior is "wow-ee," evoking Jacques Tati's "Playtime" sets, circa mid-1960's, described in wikipedia as "modernist glass and steel" with faux Eames pressed chairs, which my dining partner knew the price of, amazing me by his ken and their bank-roll.
However, while sitting on $250 chairs we had a great price-quality lunch (18 E for two courses, 22 E for three); how do they do it?
We both had a rabbit rollatine with dried tomatoes, forcemeat and an emulsion of tarragon; light, indeed ethereal, inventive and delicious.
My friend then had what we both thought was an OK but not dazzling lieu while I had what I certainly considered one of the best ribs of the decade; both with greens and mine with herb-flecked smashed potatoes - again quite delicious.
I liked both desserts but my pal, who can always think of ways dishes can be improved, wanted to dash into the kitchen and add some caramel sauce to his poached pear on spiced bread and I forbad him tinkering with my coffee pannacotta with dense chocolate sauce that I thought was nickel.
Our bill with a bottle of very reasonably-priced wine, two coffees, no bottled water and OK bread, was 69.40 E. Again a wow.
Go? I cannot think of a reason not to; innovative cooking, nifty decor, fun choices and oh so easy prices. I hope this lady stays here for a while, I'll be back.
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