Monday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 4/5 dots to the much mentioned Rem Koolhaas-designed Le Dauphin, coordinates given before, mentioning the smoked bouillon, vegetables with foie gras, veal cutlet and chocolate and pear; and Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to La Cerisaie in Levallois-Perret, 56, rue de Villiers 01.47.58.40.61, closed Sunday night, with formulas at 32 and 38 (weekday lunch), a la carte 45 E for beautiful products such as daurade ceviche with wasabi, lamb chop, entrecote/fries and rice pudding.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, anonymous reviewed the bistro/bar a vins Les 3 Sceaux, 58, rue de la Fontaine-au-Roi in the 11th, 09.54.27.86.86, closed Sundays, running one 16- 35 E for 5 starters and 5 mains, which are all named by source (vegetables, meats and fish) as well as an ample list of wines.
Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his five new restaurants in Figaroscope’s “Les nouveautes a la carte” and he ranked only one 2/4 hearts, the pricey Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos, coordinates given before, mentioning the fennel with sea urchins, sweetbreads and soufflé. Two other places merited one heart: Le Gourbi Palace, 48, rue Albert-Thomas in the 10th, 01.42.08.45.20, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays running one 35-45 E for daurade tartare, blanquette de veau and chocolate mousse and A La Carte, 16, rue d’Argenteuil in the 1st, 01.58.62.11.09, closed weekends, a la carte 10-20 E for salads and sandwiches. Two broken hearts went to Les Bistronautes, 54, rue d’Assas in the 6th, 01.45.49.24.88, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 40 E for pumpkin cappuccino, pepper-steak and dauphinois potatoes and the Italian Cittadella in the 9th.
Figaroscope’s “Dossier” this week by Colette Monsat, Alexandra Michot, Hugo de Saint Phalle and Francois Simon was on restaurants from the 4th Republic – that is, the 1950’s:
L’Auberge Bressane
Chez Germaine
D’Chez Eux
Au Moulin a Vent
Astier
Chez Rene
Aux Fins Gourmets
Robert & Louise
Les Deux Canards
L’Ami Louis
And Francois Simon wrote a “Hache Menu” ate at one of them, specifically Au Bon Pourcain in the 6th, which he says is delicious and ambiance-ful.
Wednesday as well, Richard Hesse sampled Monsieur le Prince in the 6th which he noted “serves up beautifully executed French country cuisine….[has] Plenty of space, good food and wine….[but]…. No accessible restrooms.
Thursday, in l’Express François-Régis Gaudry reviewed Pantruche, Les Tablettes, and Simone e Nicola, all of whose coordinates have been given before, while Pierrick Jégu reviewed Le Siffleur de ballons an off-shoot of l’Ebouchoir across the street at 34, rue de Cîteaux, in the 12th, 01-58-51-14-04, a la carte about 15-30 E, closed Sunday and Monday, and Andrea Petrini reviewed Iber y Co in Lyon.
Saturday, in Le Figaro, Francois Simon in his “Croque Notes” wrote about three spots that’ll set you up for winter – Sola, L’Hedoniste and L’Epicurisme.
In Sunday’s JDD, Aurelie Chaigneau wrote about three creperies: Mamie Tavennec, Breizh Café + West Country Girl all of whose coordinates have been given before and Astrid T’Serclaes wrote up the Square Marcadet, ditto.
In Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published an article on Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomico and John Talbott one on “Desperately Seeking Bistros.”
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