6.1 Akrame, 19, rue Lauriston in the 16th, 01.40.67.11.16, (Metro: CdeG/Etoile), closed Sundays, costs 25 and 35 for weekday lunches of 2 or 3 courses and 45 (4 plates) and 65 E (6) at dinner.
Backstory: The chef originally cooked in Tours, where he was proclaimed a "talent of tomorrow." He moved to Paris last year. January 6th I wrote about his new place, Konfidential in the hotel of the same name - "Go? The chef, Akame Benallel, is indeed talented and his training chez Gagnaire & Adria impressive, and I'd ordinarily say, yes, if you live near there, but considering the competition, [Spring, Regalade St Honore, Chez Adrienne, etc.] I think I would be lured elsewhere, even to the Spring Boutique's popote.... But if he were to wrest himself free from this haute-gamme site and follow the pseudonymous Olivier Morteau's formula for success, to “go to a culinary wasteland, cook inventively and charge more reasonable prices”, I think we'd be back in a flash.
Well, he took my advice (just kidding, I'm not that influential) and here he is a few months later with the same surprise/market menu of the moment, no choices, take it or leave it.
The first course (after a dry cracker with fish eggs amuse gueule) was incredible; cod with some sort of dusting and a tomato/something puree on top of which sat a succulent sliced tomato.
The main course was a faux filet of beef with a sweet potato puree, a tiny smear of burnt peanuts and small potatoes cooked in butter with unburnt peanut shards. Also great.
The dessert was/were one of the best uses of mango I've ever had, plus fromage blanc and some lime ice cream.
With their own bottled water, a bottle of wine, two Vielle Prunes and three Nespressos, our bill for three was 171.50 E (or 114.33 E a couple) but, but, but, when I come with Colette we'll dispense with the outrageously priced 6 E self-bottled CRYO water and the digestif, and we'll get out for a bit closer to the magic number.
Go? Despite the tattoo'd women photos on the walls, I'd strongly urge you to.
Oh and in a hasty attempt to snap a snap of his Tours restaurant truck, this is what resulted.
Recent Comments