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September 06, 2011


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Interesting post. This may be just another wave that will splash and retreat. Driving through France in the early 70's, we were impressed with the feeling of complete abundance in the dining rooms of Messieurs Bocuse, Pic, Troisgros, Vergé and others of blessed memory. And the entire dining room was wheeled to one's table at dessert time! Then the 80's brought a drastically sparing approach: tiny portions, no butter, no cream, no flour - as if every 40 years a nostalgie pour le rationnement overwhelmed the country. And on and on and on. Was not thrilled with the more recent "discovery" of the wonderful uses of formerly discarded fishes and cheaper cuts of beef with no concomitant reduction of prices.

Margaret Pilgrim

As a charter member of the Ziploc Lunch Bunch, I applaud your post. Of late, the standard three course format is frequently expanded to 5, 6 or more courses, often ending with multiple desserts. If one dines out only once a week, this size meal may be appropriate. But for the visitor who dines out twice a day, 7 days a week, large portions are not a favor. One can get a feeling for a chef's talent, focus and range as well, and indeed I think better, with small portions where taste buds remain alert and the appetite not sated until the last bite.

Mae West was wrong. Too much of a good thing is not wonderful.

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