The quote is actually "Come, Watson, come! The game is afoot." And while early game was heralded, at least in my neighborhood, by Scot's grouse in the butcher's window 3 or 4 weeks ago, it was frankly too damn hot then to think about game (Q. then why did you have cassoulet in Toulouse, Tuesday John? Ans: that's a whole other matter, TBE.) But today was the first real day of crisp fall and when Colette saw that James Henry was not cooking at Au Passage and the offerings were mackerel, merlu or onglet and a cream patisserie, we hopped like bunnies across the road to the Repaire de Cartouche, where Rodolphe Paquin greeted us like he knew the face but couldn't quite retrouve the name.
(Photo credits Kent Ravenscroft)
And game was indeed afoot: grouse, deer and pigeon if not lievre royale. The head-snapping-back menu at 28 E had Bambi for a main; a natural for three of us.
But first a little bobo; their wonderful bread with smooth but spicy and creamy rillettes as well as a hot soup made from (get this) the green tops of raddishes.
The menu offered a choice of salmon or rissole of boudin noir (not pictured) and I had the sauteed girolles off the carte - all were terrific.
Then the three others went on to do the deer with white beans and I had a most intruiging presentation of grouse on cabbage where its dressing was outside and the birdie inside, thus perfectly preserving its tenderness and moistness.
Madame terminated with an assortment of cheese and the others had a white chocolate and strawberry cake; both quite nice.
Our bill with two bottles of wine, two coffees and a glass of Bordeaux (offered) was 172.00 E, thus 86 E a couple for all game all the time.
Go? Well my co-equipier at PbM Patricia Wells, in January 2003 in "At Home with Patricia Wells" wrote that "About once a year something leads me to pick up the phone and book a table at Le Repaire de Cartouche....." and I think that's still the case.
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