John Talbott's Paris

Le 975 in the 17th: Out of the way but fully worth your schlep.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le 975 in the 17th is out of almost everyone's way but when I read about its design months ago, I thought this was a serious place and two visits have confirmed that.  The wait-staff is terribly welcoming (Ok two of we American-born bloggers wrote it up enthusiastically a month ago) and we were treated to glasses of a great white wine and extra excellent mise en bouches of a veloute of onions with punchy bacon slices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, two of us had the plat du jour (13 E [lamb shoulder with tapende and lentil "salad"] alone, 16 E with a mise en bouche and a Café gourmandise - whooey!); Colette had the lieu jaune (pollack) with a mousseline of brussel sprouts gratinated with parmesan and - it's fall folks - so I had the tourte of perdreau rouge (partridge) stuffed with foie gras and what I assume were mushed abbats of which, with a rich rich sauce of grey shallots.  Everyone's dream came true.

The Café goumandise was a tower of biscuit, chocolate and caramelized sliced banana.

Our bill - get this - was 120.50 E, but if we were itemizing it like my mother at Schraffts's, one of us owed only 16 E and one 24.50 E.

Louis in the 9th: Is there any place better than this for interesting food right now?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So our friends, who live a tripartite life in Italy, France and the USA said we'll go to one of Colette's top 3, nothing else. So back we went with a light heart to Louis in the 9th, and it blew us out of the water, again, once again.  Stephane Pitre doesn't let grass grow under his feet; he's ever in motion.  There are 2 menus at lunch (3 courses for 32 E and 6 for 48 E) and we've been doing one each to get all the choices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First of course we order some wine, then are presented with 3 pre-amuse bouches (the most astonishing, a meringue "cigarette" with grains of mustard) and the amuse itself - a lighter than air concoction.

and then for our firsts Madame brought out what looked like a coffee or tea brewer but no, it was a bouillon below cooking slowly, with divine pieces of foie gras above - our spouses had to put up with not so bad parsnip and salmon and matcha mousses.

Then came the mains: the most divine (wait, I already used that term, oh well) Spring lamb not 5 year old mutton, with squash, yogurt with a moroccan spice (Ras el Hanout my N. African food tour leader/expert tells me) and mint; uncooked mushrooms slices on line-caught cod (wait a minute, where did that come from?); and pieces of a paleron of beef with broccolini and ?cabbage and a warm oyster with whole cracked nuts - whoa!  And then, what? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For a "pre-dessert", the chef sent out some frigo rouge (whatever that is) on top of figs and cream; our real desserts were chocolate squares with yuzu and Guanaja chocolate with vanilla and Burgundy truffles.  Man oh man!

 

With coffee came wonderful mignardises and from the chef himself - eau de vielle prunes.  A great topping for a fine meal.  Life is good.

Our bill with two bottles and a glass of wine, two coffees and the prune (offered) was 220 E, thus 110 E per couple.

Les Fables de la Fontaine in the 7th: Seafood as good as it gets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Les Fables de la Fontaine is a place I liked so much 24 days ago that I dragged Colette and two of our Parisien food friends there again today.  Between visits Figaro had an article about its 21 year old chef noting that she leaned a bit more toward meat that the prior emphasis on seafood and as you'll see, they had a point.  The carte was much as before but the 25 E "menu" was very tempting (bass and merlu) so I went in that direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For firsts, JJ had the gravlax with beets, R. the fried calamari with cannelloni and carrots (and zucchini seeds which he puzzled over) and I had the "menu" selection, carpaccio of bar in a soup of carrots - all dishes prepared with finesse and maturity well beyond 21 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, Colette and JJ had the effiloche de raie, which they loved, R had the joues de boeuf (which we all kidded him about in a seafood place but which held up, especially with its pak choi) and I had the "menu" merlu which was long like eel and came with wonderfully smoky roasted endives.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For enders, R and JJ shared the aged mimolette with us all and we shared the roast pear with pear ice cream and nut biscuits; all very nice.

Our bill, with two bottles of excellent Loire Sauvignon, no bottled water but 4 coffees, was 199 E; thus 99.50 E a couple.

Reviews of reviews: the Week of September 21st, 2015

 

Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned L’Escudella in the 7th  and Jerome Berger gave the same marks to Juste, a seafood-oriented place at 48, rue Laffitte in the 9th, closed weekends where for 20-25 E one can get items such as lobster, bivalves and lemon cake.

Tuesday in Le Fooding, there was a review of Dilia which they titled “Des pâtes et des idées tratto(ria)sphériques” which clearly is Italian-oriented in the old Roseval space in the 19th.

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual  5 restaurants, giving 3 hearts to the previously mentioned La Bourse et la vie Daniel Rose & Marie-Aude Mery’s new bistro in the 2nd as well as the above mentioned Dilia and the previously mentioned A Mere in the 10th.  The Italian Faggio in the 9th got two hearts and the French Chez Francis in the 8th garnered only one/five.

Rubin’s Hache Menu dealt with the Asiatique traditionnel Chez He in the 11th.

The Dossier this week by Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat & Hugo de Saint Phalle covered places in the 9th that included: Faggio, Bouillon, Louis, Les Comptoirs du Medoc, L’entrée des Artistes Pigalle, Comptoir Canailles, Merguez & Pastrami, Bistrot Papillon. And also Les Affranchis

Also on Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed negatively the British gastropub Rosemary in the 4th.

Thursday in L’Express, they reviewed the “rétro-futuriste” annex Anecdote of Alexandre Gauthier in Montreuil-sur-Mer in the Pas de Calais and the crêperie Mad Eo in the 3rd.

Saturday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed three restaurants: giving 7.5/10 to the previously mentioned A. Noste in the 2nd; 7/10 to the previously mentioned Martin in the 11th; and 7.5/10 to the Lebanese Liza in the 2nd.  In addition, in the jdd version femina, Julie Zwingelstein reviewed Papillon, 6, rue Papillon in the 9th, 01.47.70.90.03, closed weekends where on 23 E lunch menus and 28-36 E ones one can have items such as pumpkin soup, magret de canard and a tarte au citron.

Le Bistrot du Maquis in the 18th: A perfect Montmartre neighborhood bistro open on weekends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Bistrot du Maquis in the 18th is a wonderful bistro down from Sacre Coeur and all that hustle and bustle, run by a couple who have been around the block.  Andre has been at Ledoyen, Prunier, & la Tour d'Argent and his food is described by viamichelin (EN) as "no nonsense cuisine."  We were warmly welcomed by Madame who noted that I was not wearing my trademark beret and confronted with a huge number of choices for all three courses.

 

Colette chose the melon soup with apple bits and ginger for a starter and I had cold haddock with sliced navets and a mango sauce; both top of the line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

She then had a wonderfully cooked and sourced partridge (which was so big and delicious she took 1/2 home for another occasion) with cabbage and I had the paleron of beef with was almost a ratatouille topping (which was OK but I much prefer a simple red wine version.)

We ended up sharing 3 roasted figs and vanilla ice cream - a great ending to a fine lunch.  (On our way out we remembered that Arnaud Lahrer was just down the street and we dashed to get some kouing-amans, but alas were too late, so settled for some pastry from Boris.)

Our bill with a bottle and glass (comp'd when Colette thought the wine I had ordered was too harsh), no bottled water and two coffees (also comp'd as a character of the quartier), was 93 E.

 

Bistro Belhara in the 7th: A Perfect Trad Bistro? Comedic waiters; great grub; friendly chef (Thierry Dufroux).).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Bistro Belhara in the 7th is one of the most classic, yet forward-moving bistros in town; the moment you enter you're greeted by one of the two waitguys, each of whom has his own shtick; encased in a very trad bistro setting and surrounded by French foodlovers (at least at lunch).  The menu is overwhelming and reasonable (34 E for 3 courses) but supplemented by two specials, one of which, the palombe, said only at night - well, our waiter got the chef, one Thierry Dufroux, to wave that restriction, and on we went.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we sat down, our oldest French friend (the one we've known longest not most aged) said "You've gotta try the bread and butter, they're great" - and this from a gal from Normandy!  She and Colette ordered the fish soup which was way above gold standard, maybe platinum, and I had the cepes and girolles with bacon - hey you only go around once unless Buddhist, which I'm seriously considering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, our friend from the 20th and 21st (Deauville) had the echine de porc (superb) and Colette and I shared the cocotte of dove with potatoes (the other special) which was approaching stratospheric quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For desserts, Madame our old friend, had the raspberry tart and Colette had the rice pudding with great nuts including some tasty pistachios - and then appeared two roasted figs - hoooo boy!

Our bill, with two bottles of wine, no bottled water but 6, yes 6, coffees, was 178 E for 3, thus 118.66 E a couple - Zowie!

 

La Bourse ET La Vie in the 2nd: The perfect neo/trad Paris bistro?; I'll let you decide, my vote is in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Bourse et La Vie in the 2nd is in its 13th day and it's so hot you burn your fingers; since I came opening day the big boys and girls at Figaro, Le Fooding and the cursed NYT have arrived but miraculously today, except for our table of three, only French was spoken.  The carte is a 5-4-4 one so there's something for everyone.  I knew what I wanted day before yesterday and dreamt of it - the veal 3-ways pot-au-feu and that's all.  Die after that a happy man.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But the ladies with me a table and in the cuisine had other ideas.  So, we three shared the divine foie gras on a huge artichoke heart as well as three oysters gratinee with Normand crème fraiche (disclosure: comp'd by Marie-Aude Mery).  With a great Languedoc, we were off to a great start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ladies then both had the deep fried quail the likes of which Colonel Sanders has never seen, with a big green salad untraditionally dressed; and I had what I was dreaming of all week - a medium sized piece of tete de veau with a pot au feu containing two other types of veal (a sliced quasi and a 7-hour chunk - both outasight), an onslaught of veggies (of which Colette thought the parcooked carrots cabbage and gorgeous green cabbage leaves were tops) and a sauce that I almost drank out of the copper pot.  To say it was spectacular would slight the chef.

Colette had been eyeing the fig tart sitting on the bar counter all the meal and we did not let the opportunity pass - another super-hit for Chef Mery.

Our bill, with no bottled water, a bottle and 2 glasses of wine (one comp'd) and three coffees, was 131.50 E, thus 87.66 E a couple.  For the best neo/trad bistro in Paris, that aint bad.  We will be coming back, again and again and again!  We love Marie's cooking!

Heimat in the 1st: New chef; new twist; former quality, easy prices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heimat, same old address in the 1st but where the sous-chef has taken over (the former having gone to Dilia, at the renamed Roseval) and tweaked the menu, according to our friend in the food biz, towards more "rustic" food.  Pierre is still the gracious host, the quality is still high, but, indeed, the tweaking and/or twisting has produced some very interesting variations.

Colette had crostini with spoonfuls of liver pate with onion and sage and the two of us had thinly sliced raw tuna (bonito) with marinated tiny tomatoes and basil that I took for red berries originally.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For mains, Colette had a beautiful chicken breast with "burned" eggplant and arroche (a type of red spinach) and the others had what was called linguine  "puttanesca" but where the essential ingredient was rouget grondin (usually found in bouillabaisse) and was it terrific tasting (second day in a row for great rouget).  Then Colette and I had warm figs on a tarte rectangle with fromage blanc sorbet.  This was an all-time high dessert.

 

Above are the entrance to and doors to the toilets which Pierre says will be like the now plain door to the restaurant which the architect is working on.

Our bill was 146 E for three with a bottle and 2 glasses of wine and their filtered water plus 3 espressos; thus 97.66 E a couple.

Go? You don't even need to read between the lines to know how enthusiastic I was.

 

Freddy's in the 6th: bar-seating and small plates (5-8 E) of top quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Freddy's, 54, rue de Seine in the 6th, 01.43.54.34.50 says the bill (but their card says "No Way" in English and there are no reservations) is a place the RFC introduced me to a few weeks ago and wondered if it would hold up without his and the Chef/genius-behind-the-throne's Imperial presence.  Quick answer: it certainly did.  The carte, printed, looks benign enough but the chalked up specials of the day are where to head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started off with a very nice Rhone and some eggplant pulp (OKA bābā ghannūj) put on bread that made for a divine start.  Soon after, a carpaccio of poulpe arrived with a marinated (in EVOO & garlic) chopped pepper garnish that snapped Colette's head back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then (though they were all "small plates") we had as our mains a lovely piece of very Japanesy miso-coated salmon, a whole but tiny grilled rouget stuffed with herbs and a beignet with fennel and lemon (which they use a lot and not just on the fish) - all, as the Guignols' Chirac would say "Top-Top."

At this point we were about to order the clafoutis of mirabelles when chef appeared and apparently impressed by the volume and frequency of our "ooo's and ahhh's" said "Would you like to try some echine de porc" with the intonation and implication that if not, we'd better check into the nearest Dementia Center.  "Ah yes" said I. 

Colette let me eat most of it, and then sly slid in that, that meant she was still ordering the clafoutis.  And a good thing too; it was a marvel.

Our bill (with the pork comp'd and the water given) was 63 E.  At this high quality, I don't know how they can stay open.

Reviews of reviews: the Week of September 14th, 2015

Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 dots to the Fables de la Fontaine, same address in the 7^th but with a new 21 year old chef and easier prices (25 E lunch menu to 70 E), open 7/7, 01.44.18.37.55, for items such as hirondelle de mer, ray and a sable Breton. 

Tuesday in Le Fooding, there was a review by Dante Nolleau of Daniel & Marie Rose’s new La Bourse et La Vie, same address as La Bourse ou La Vie, in the 2^nd, 01.42, 60.08.83, closed weekends, where for 36-50 E one can have Marie’s families cakes for breakfast and items such as pot-au-feu for lunch, artichoke with foie gras and chocolate mousse for lunch or dinner. 

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual  5 restaurants, giving 2 hearts to L’Escudella, 41, ave de Segur in the 7^th, 09.82.28.70.70, closed weekends, where for 40-50E one can eat items such as carpaccio of pig’s feet, lamb and a revision of the Paris-Brest;  Freddy’s, 54, rue de Seine in the 6^th, no telephone, open 7/7, little sister of Semilla, Fish & Cosi, serving items such as octopus salad, razor clams and duck hearts for 15-25 E; and the American-Moroccan Merguez & Pastrami in the 9^th.  He also gave the Hanoi Café in the 9th one heart and Tradi in the 2nd a busted one.. 

Rubin’s Hache Menu dealt with the Indian Desi Road. 

The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio & Hugo de Saint Phalle covered places open late:

La Fidelitie

Le Balcon

Hotel Bachaumont

Gallopin

Ober Mamma

Brasserie Barbes

Rococo

L’Ecaillier de l’ebeniste

And also Dersou & Coffee Club 

Also on Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed three non-French places in the 10^th - Distrito Francés, Rococo, & Osè. 

Thursday in L’Express, they reviewed the already mentioned A. Mere and La Fidelitie as well as a comparison of two kebab places – Rococo in the 10^th and Zarma in the 9^th.