John Talbott's Paris

Paris Pix: Chefs' outfits.

Paris Pix: World food.

Reviews of Reviews: The week of April 11th, 2016

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris there were reviews of the previously mentioned Boeuf Maillot and Panache.  In addition there was a summary of new places that serve brunch:
La Reserve
Café Madam
Papelli
G.IV
Brasserie Thoumieux
Chez Liza
Angelina
Les Fermes de Gally.

Tuesday, Le Fooding had a review of L’Entre Deux in Biarritz and the previously mentioned Fish Club in Paris.

Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle wrote up places with a star to eat at:
The most Maestro – L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
The youngest star – Les Fables de la Fontaine
The most Italian – Penati al Baretto
The most concept – Hexagone
The most Iodic – Antoine
The most Japanese Meat – Pages
The most young cuisine – David Toutain
The most bouillionesque – Ze Kitchen Galerie

And Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu covered the seafood oriented Mobilis in Mobili, 94 rue St Denis in the 1st , 09.53.58,97,13, closed Mondays, where according to you appetite, it can cost 20-40 E and classic platters are 14-68 E.

In his reviews of 5 new places this week he gave 2 hearts to Nube, 12-14 Rue de Marignan in the Hotel of the same name, open 7/7 serving items such as unilateral duck, a broche de volaille jaune and sable with black chocolate.  Then he gave the rest one heart each: the previously mentioned Za in the 1st; the well known Gallopin in the 1st; Le Coude Fou in the 4th; and the Viet Thai Hao Long in the 1st.

Also Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Gros which she really liked.

This week in L’Express Styles, Francois Regis Gaudry reviewed the previously mentioned and tested Anthocyane in the 14th and Garopapilles in Bordeaux.

Paris Pix: Mickey Mouse Hatrack.

Points South in Baltimore MD: Really spicy; really good.

Back story and disclosure: Almost 30 years ago Bryson Keens spent a year in one of my daughter's school classes, then left and suddenly reappeared in our lives this year, opening the well-received Points South with chef Scott Stauber.  When another of my daughters' birthday loomed, the family decided we should eat there; thus we were known to the house and received unusual attention, but perhaps that's the way they treat all customers.

 

Points South Latin Kitchen is located on the terribly crowded and popular Thames St (1640 Tel:443-563-2018) but we entered and found in the interior warm and quiet, excepting the music, which was quickly turned down.  We were seated in a lovely wine cellar room by the owner and given glasses of bubbly - a Gougenheim Sparkling Malbec from Argentina.  He indicated that it would go nicely with the fiery grilled octopus with olives, a dish I thought was the highlight of the night.  One quibble: it's too bad it's not served with gluten-free tacos or bread (I forgot to mention the resto is gluten-free).

Next we had small plate portions of fried plantain chips with an Aztec pumpkin seed dip and a Peruvian-Chinese style salmon with green beans and almonds; which came with two Sauvignon Blancs; a Cousino Macul from Chile and a Leyda from Chile that was almost sweet.

The introduction to the main course was seared fresh cheese with chorizo and the main - Argentinian beef (NY strip) steak, which the chef delivered two ways at our request - medium rare for everyone but me - mine was perfectly cooked blue; again with wine pairings of an Argentinian Callia Alta Malbec and a Chilean Casa La Postolle Cab.

Finally, the crew had Venezuelan chocolate and dolce de leche marble cake and I had a lovely deconstructed flan; these with a Portuguese Taylor Fladgate 10 year tawny port.

The bill for 6, with these superb and spicy offerings, with water and generous wine pairings, but no coffees, was $466.96, thus $148.98 before tip.

Go?  Despite my conflict of interest, I say a strong "Yes."  I think we got the same superb food as the rest of the house (he has 204 covers) although Bryson's attentiveness and the wait-staff's diligence certainly were special

 

 

Paris Pix: Where do they get these names?

Paris Pix: Faggedaboutit?

Paris Pix: Before the protesters arrived

Paris Pix: Watering holes near home.

Reviews of Reviews: The week of April 4th, 2016

Tuesday, Le Fooding had a review by Dante Nolleau of Le Petit Keller, 13 Rue Keller in the 11th, 01.53.34.03.91, closed Sunday and Monday, run by the ex chef at Nanashi who serves Asiatic-Japanese small plates such as miso soup, salads and asparagus for 3-12 E a plate.

Wednesday, in Le Figaroscope, Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle described the new places featuring meat-balls, rating them from 1-13:
1. The Cafe Moderne
2. Capucine
2. Bul
4. Boulettes
4. Ober Mama

And Emmanuel Rubin’s Hache Menu covered the Maison Rostang in the 17th, where “menus” cost 185 & 225 E (a la carte 200E) where one might go for a special occasion.

In his reviews of 5 new places this week he gave 2 hearts to 4 places: the previously mentioned Panache in the Hotel Panache in the 9th; the Laotian Chez Alfred in the 11th; the pizzeria Marzo in the 7th; and the terre-mer tapas place Hubert, formerly the Bistrot Bellet, open only at dinner in the 10th.  A broken heart went to the Israeli Else in the 1st.

Also Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed two hip places in the Marais: the Polish Adriana and Margot and the previously mentioned and tested Miznon.

Saturday in Le Figaro, Hadrien Gonzales wrote about two new restaurants in Les Halles in the 1st, the contemporary brasserie – Champeaux, located under the Canopee, which has 260 seats, overseen by Alain Ducasse and chef’d by Bruno Brangea, from Ducasse’s stable, open 7/7 starting April 11th, 01.53.45.84.50 and a literary cafeteria Za, also under the Canopee in the 1st, 01.77.37.77.37, open also 7/7, designed by Philippe Starck, featuring sane and light food, with goofy names like zoupes, zalads and zomelettes, under the direction of Fabienne and Philippe Amzalak (Eclectic, Bob & Ma Cocotte), chef’d by Yannick Papin with 328 covers!  Tucked below is an article by Colette Monsat reminding us of openings nearby in the past (Yam’tcha, AG Les Halles, l’Auberge Nicolas Flamel & le Fish Club) and future (Clover Grill & Chez La Vieille).