John Talbott's Paris

Le BAT in the 9th: 2 (Real) Characters in Search of a Chef, a Staff, a Meal, even Godot.

2.0 Le BAT, 16 bis Blvd Montmartre in the 9th, 01.42.46.14.25, closed Sundays (Metro: Grands Boulevards): A Play in 4 Acts.

Prequel: Email message from trusted food source indicating that an old restaurant, much loved, Le BAT, had a new chef and meal was better than or equal to almost all my meals this year.

Setting: That same restaurant located between the Indiana and the Hard Rock Cafes.

Characters: Two aging dudes looking suspiciously like Vladimir and Estragon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Act 1: Vladimir-type character enters stage left and orders a glass of white wine.  Sits reading Le Figaro waiting for..... Godot?  No, his old pal Ze Estragon.  Peruses the carte and menu.  Pal enters stage left; two exchange news of the day - Sarkozy, Hilliary, Trump, Hilliary, Zuckerberg, Hilliary, Pope, Hilliary.  Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff to take order.  Wait-person takes order.  Vlad clearly asks for meat to be done "blue".  Answer - "That's the way the chef does it."

INTERMISSION (20 minutes) Behind scrim one sees Vladimir-type look at his watch every 2 minutes, Ze Estragon guy talks to himself but you see his lips moving - Macron, Hilliary, Trump, Hilliary, Pelosi, Hilliary, Bayrou, Hilliary. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Act 2: Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff to get more wine.  Firsts arrive; ancient tomatoes pretty good; warm grilled poulpe, not bad; grilled unripe, hard, cold avocado slices - huh?  why?  When one of the bums asks why?  Wait-type says "For color."

INTERMISSION (30 minutes)  Behind scrim one sees Vladimir-type look at his watch every 2 minutes, Ze Estragon guy talks silently but you see his lips moving - Cameron, Hilliary, Trump, Hilliary, LePen, Hilliary, Supreme Court, Hilliary. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Act 3: Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff for more wine.  Mains arrive.  What the deuce are these?  Wait-guy recoils - Estragon-type asks as only a Frenchman can "Is this what we really ordered?"  Mackerel and over-done chicken nuggets?  Mumbles "Totally disorganized!"  Wait guy returns with same dishes "Yes it is."  "Say, how long has that chef been here?"  "Since Yaviv Berreby left in February, he was the sous-chef."  "And Jerome?"  "Oh, he left a year and a half ago."  Thought balloon - "Well that explains it, or at least some of it."  Actually, to their credit the tempured veggies were good and they weren't chicken nuggets but overcooked pieces of Tapilla iberico.

Last ACT: Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally 2 coffees.  One bum takes a sip and pushes it away; "yuck, that's a point off." Second bum "But it's Illy."  "Nevermind, it's undrinkable."

Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally bill arrives, with the equivalent of a bottle of wine and no bottled water = 99.50 E

Exeunt.

Go?  Need you ask.

 

Last ACT: Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally 2 coffees.  One bum takes a sip and pushes it away; "yuck, that's a point off." Second bum "But it's Illy."  "Nevermind, it's undrinkable."

Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally bill arrives, with the equivalent of a bottle of wine and no bottled water = 99.50 E

Exeunt.

Go?  Need you ask.

Last ACT: Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally 2 coffees.  One bum takes a sip and pushes it away; "yuck, that's a point off." Second bum "But it's Illy."  "Nevermind, it's undrinkable."

Much waving and raising of fingers to get wait-staff.  Finally bill arrives, with the equivalent of a bottle of wine and no bottled water = 99.50 E

Exeunt.

Go?  Need you ask.

Loiseau Rive Gauche in the 7th: At lunch an incredible "menu" at a great price; at dinner or a la carte, buyer beware!

8.0 Loiseau Rive Gauche, 5, Rue de Bourgogne in the 7th (the very spot where the House of Loiseau's Tante Marguerite was), 01.45.51.79.42, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Assemblee Nationale) has a new chef, Maxime Laurenson, who my dining partner quoted Telerama as saying "a sacrément modernisé l'assiette... rigoureux dans la techniques, audacieux dans les alliances, pour décoiffer l'air de rien."  Well that was enough to pique my interest.  The daily menu du Marche is 39 E no-choice but a quick bit of addition of the carte shows one exceeding 120 E very quickly before liquids so we both went for it - plus it did sound interesting.

 

Before the listed items, however, came 3 amuses - a piece of smoked haddock on a shrimp wafer on a bed of green algae I think; shaved beets with elderflower in vinegar; and pieces of foie gras with tiny rounds of turnips on top (photo being developed).

 

Now to the menu du marche: shaved cauliflower bookending a piece of smoked eel and other vegetables with cauliflower mousse; two splendid, perfectly undercooked pieces of Challans duck with acidulated cherry halves and potato balls; and a dessert of wild berries with pistachio ice cream.

Along with coffee came two lovely mignardises; one chocolate, the other financiers.

With a bottle and glass of wine and no bottled water, our bill was 135 E a couple.

Go?  At lunch, in a minute, for one of your best meals of the Fall.

Le Jean Mouloud in the 18th: Certainly NOT your usual neighborhood bistro orientale: this place in a winner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.9 Le Jean Mouloud, 195, rue Championnet in the 18th, 01.83.56.29.65, closed weekends (Metro: Guy Moquet) is in the old Il Gusto space, a detail I mention only because if you are a frequenter of/on the 31 bus, you'be passed it time after time.  It calls itself an oriental (eg North African influenced) bistro, and indeed there were N. African wines, hummus and couscous on the menu but the overall dishes were classically French.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, well gaspacho isn't exactly French but it's from this side of the Sea, and it was very very good.  The best ever?  No, Colette makes that, but it was pretty good and had both chunks and pureed veggies which I like.  It and the main course each came with a little bag of wonderfully moist warm baguette slices. Then I had langoustines with artichoke stems and hearts - both ncely singed to give them the slightly burnt flavor - they came with a ton of veggies that I couldn't finish, Mom, honestly.  Finally, rather than get a huge plate of chocolate mousse I chose the cafe gourmand which in addition to chocolate had figs, pistachio ice cream and a crumble as well as many sliced almonds.

My bill, with no bottled water but a half bottle of Algerian wine, was 50 E, thus 100 E a couple (they had specials ofthe day for 13 E for 2 and 15 E for 3 as well.)  85 dB

Go?  I doubt you'd ever find yourself in this area between the 17th and 18th, but if so, you bet.

Les Artizans in the 2nd: Between Mister Burger and Bistro Burger, a place that serves fait maison not Metro.

6.8 Les Artizans, 30, rue Montorgueil in the 2nd, 01.40.28.44.74, 7/7, (Metro: Les Halles) is one of those place one walks by on the rue Montorgueil and thinks (at least I do) "Oh, one more fungible red façade Metro-pushing joint."  But no, this place, ex-L'Epicerie, is not the same old same old.  It's the real thing as the Coca-Cola ad used to say.

My dining partner, between train from Provence and plane to the USA had gazpacho which for the weather (87) was perfect and I had beignets of gambas that doubting Thomas I, made sure were made in house.  Both were way above the level of the chow being dished out up and down the street.

For main courses, my partner chose the Cesar salad which she ate all of and I had the lamb shoulder which was really mutton shoulder with baby potatoes and a terrific sauce; the pot of which was placed on a tree slice which, next to slate has become the fashionable trivet in Paris.

Desserts are temptingly displayed in a huge vitrine and my dining partner chose two macaroons and I something called a caramelon that was in a word" divine."  So much so that I ordered one for dinner tonight.

Our bill, with a bottle of wine, one of water and two coffees, was 118.90 E.

Go?  Well, with Pirouette and AG Les Halles around the corner, it's a tough call, but this is a sure #3 after them and it's open on Sundays.

Paris Pix: I guess they ran out of other names.

Canard & Champagne: Hooo, boy, letterripp; for duck lovers, it's made for you.

Backstory:  So you see the name of a new restaurant - Canard & Champagne - and what do you think?  Or what do I think?  The Tour d'Argent of course: voiturier, elegant place settings, coats and ties, vested waitpersons, champagne flowing from taps of gold.  Not for me, thought I when it opened in February.  But in truth, it is none of the above.  Instead it's on the crowded, hustling, bustling Passage des Panoramas, the inside all stools, the outside bright blue tables and the service anything but stuffy.

7.0 Canard & Champagne, 57, Passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, 09.81.83.95.69, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Grands Boulevards) only became attractive when my good buddy Randy de Paris, wrote it up on his blog Paris Missives and I asked him, "so, what'did'ja'do'for'wine?" knowing one of the couple only drank red and the other only white.  "Oh, they have wine too" he said.  Ah, ha, so off I went with my old pal from the fabulous website that's sad history.

My partner, expecting an expensive carte was surprised on learning the "menu" was in force on weekends (26 E for 3, 17.50 E for 2 courses).  We started off sharing a generous portion of foie gras with rather good toasted bread, then both had the fabulous confit de canard, she with salad, me with frites and we wound up sharing a splendid chocolate mousse.

Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine, no bottled water but 2 coffees, was 78.60 E a couple.

Go?  I heartedly recommend it, unless you have a member of your household adverse to duck - although they do have chicken and beef and salad.

La Cantine de l'Embuscade in the 11th: Oh Boy, hardly your parents' cantine.

6.5 La Cantine de l'Embuscade, 10 rue du Grand Prieure in the 11th (Metro: Oberkampf) 01.71.24.58.44, closed Saturday lunch, Sundays and Mondays is an off-shoot of the wine bar L'Embuscade but despite its heritage and name, it looks much more like a bistro than either a cantine or wine bar.  The décor and calling card are from a nifty design by Ingrid Kauffmann, whom I'd never heard of, but will watch now.

There is no carte but the 21 E for 3 dishes (17 for 2) "menu" suited me just fine: but first out came 3 breads, I only had room to try two but they were first rate.  Then came a mackerel which showed the chef's background (at Passard's) since it came with abundant veggies; eggplant, pickles and a palate of black and white sauces alongside.  Then I had a filet mignon of beef which was perfectly cooked, again with many veggies (eggplant, cucumber, shallots were they?) and fruit (apricots).  It was a challenge to get them all on the fork simultaneously but well worth the end result once in the mouth.  For dessert I went with the crème brulee of mint which was a bit chilly and had an inconsistent texture, but it was plenty good.

The front-room hostess gave me more information about the wines than necessary but it being 90-100 degrees today depending on where you stood, I shot for something sensible.  A half bottle plus tap water and a coffee resulted in a bill of 39.50 E.  dB = 80.4 although not my choice of American music.

Go?  You bet.  If nothing else the price is right as the old TV show said.

Noun in the 18th: An even more pleasant neighborhood resaurant.

5.3 Noun, 41, rue du Ruisseau in the 18th, closed Sundays and Mondays, 09.83.50.67.50 (Metro: Jules Joffrin) has been open for several months and I keep walking by it but first it had no gas hooked up for the kitchen, then it was only open for dinner, now its up and running full-time.  The décor and music are very Spanish but the food is straightout French.  I was struck that the welcome was not very warm and the daily "menu" while reasonable (15.50 for 2 courses, 19.50 E for 3) was not terribly exciting.  (BTW, the reflection in the window of the evening carte of the handsome dude in white is the author/photographer).

I started with the mussels with smoked paprika which was rather tasty and filling enough; then a square piece of merlu with a risotto of what appeared to be quinoa not rice and capers; and fuinished up with the unpictured crumble of prunes, mirabelles and nuts, again OK but no dazzles.

The temperatures being in the high 90's, I opted for a 1/2 bottle of rose, which with so-s0 bread but an Illy coffee, resulted in a tarif of 70 E a couple.  dB = 73.9

Go?  A lukewarm - Maybe. 

Le Réciproque in the 18th: A delightful neighborhood place; no more no less.

5.0 Le Réciproque, 14, rue Ferdinand Flocon in the 18th, 09.86.37.80.77 (ignore the one in Le Bonbon, it's his mobile), closed weekends (Metro:Jules Joffrin) has settled into the place previously occupied by L'Oxalis, L'Histoire de.... and numerous others since I moved in nearby and a friendly neighbor spotted the change of direction and chef several weeks ago asking "could this be?"  So, it had to be.  On approach the sign clearly says "Adrien & Sylvain, who turn out to have been two student pals at Ferrandi.  The place has undergone a great change, of decor and menu and really looked promising.

 

The warm bread was terrific and along with the cold soup of basil and croutons set us off on the right foot.  Neither of us wanted the menus (19 E for 2; 23 E for 3 course) and went for the 33 and 35 menu-carte.  My friend dug into his haddock with salad and shaved parmesan and I said "so?"  "Not bad," he said "not bad (in the American sense), but not great either, You?"  "Ah" said I, eating the lentils with bacon bits (lard) and hard-to-locate foie gras, "the same I'm afraid."

Next my friend had the quasi of veal rare with a circular mound of eggplant, zucchini and tomato, I think, both delicious; and I had fillettes of duck, ordered blue with carrots and cherries, which were without standing but without fault.  We finished up by sharing a custard of mirabelles that was in a pressed square making us suspect it was not housemade, but Adrien said it was.  OK.

Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine and no bottled water but one coffee, was 105 E.  Noise level 84.4 dB once I asked for the speaker above me to be turned down.

Go?  In the block where the Table d'Eugene lives, it's a tough go.

Jaïs in the 7th: About as good as it gets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7.4 Jaïs, 3 rue, Surcouf in the 7th, closed Saturday nights, Sundays and Mondays at dinner, 01.40.62.96.75, Metro: La Tour-Maubourg or Invalides is not terribly impressive from outside, but the interior, replacing Le Petit Thiou, is beautiful - 1/2 open kitchen, with 3 guys working silently but efficiently, nice chairs and banquettes and stunning lights.  One's impression is Wow!

 

The formula at 27 E for 2 dishes and menu at 34 E for 3 are certainly beautifully priced, but our eyes fixed on the carte which offered traditional as well as modern dishes.  While waiting they served us some freshly cut ham (I saw them slice it), perfectly toasted bread from Breton and spot-on sweet butter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My co-eating pal chose to start with the tartare of veal with an egg and greens and I went with wonderful girolles also with an egg (one of the new trends this decade).  Both of us really wanted the ris de veau with peas and despite the hazzard of ordering the same thing in a new place we placed our trust in the hands of Jaïs Mimoun (who with his brother Yanice, in the front room, run the place) and we were not disappointed.  In fact we were thrilled.

I always hate it when people say the desserts were spectacular overshadowing the rest of the meal but in this case only the first past was true - they, at least our lemon tarte with yuge meringue was spectacular but complemented the excellence of the rest of the meal.

My partner, having written at least two wine books and received at least one prize, got to pick the wine, avoiding my tendency towards the cheapos, and that as well as two coffees and a Chateldon brought our check to 145 E.

Go?  Without hesitation.  Warm welcome, great range of choices, expert cooking and relatively quiet (78.9 dB) even when our Yankee friends elevated the level.