Prequel: My Chinese-American food/street feng shui guru has been keeping me updated on current events in her department and things are hotting up in the neighborhood. Not so long ago, we just had the Table d’Eugene in the 18th, then Jeanne B. followed by Le Maquis and more recently Ken Kawasali and L’Arcane, which has stars in its eyes. But last month, my guide led me towards 4,5,6,7 new places, or at least places I hadn’t reviewed. So making up for lost time, yesterday I went to Traversee and despite lukewarm meat entrees, the one first and menu/carte were so promising, I’ll try it again. But today we really hit the groove.
6.5 Le Lamarck, 8, rue Lamarck in the 18th, 01.53.41.01.60, (Bus: Montmartrobus or Funiculaire), closed Sundays, inhabits a space previously housing the Grand Huit, which my sources loved but I never warmed to, as recently as April of last year. But in July two young guys, the Chef out of Senderens and Robuchon, took over and boyoo boyoo.
The menu is such that you can have small plates and big ones as well as specials. To start, we shared some of the best fried papillotes of gambas with guacamole I’ve ever had since the Bistro Cote Mer closed plus a wonderful spicy mix of crab meat.
Then again we mixed up dishes of sot-l’y-laisse and artichoke hearts and a wild shrimp risotto, again very special, different and delicious.
For dessert we shared a rice pudding, deconstructed lemon tart and chocolate “sensation.” All terrific.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of Chalencay, a carafe d’eau, wonderful bread from Poujeron and two coffees, was €128.40 or €85.60. db's = 80.4 despite it being almost full (25 covers) of English speakers from non-Anglo countries
Go back? Feng shui beckons. And next time I'll order the duck confit if its on the ardoise, it looked realllllly good.
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