John Talbott's Paris

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 21, 2018

Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Alexis Chenu described the YC Café in the Galeries Lafayette featuring the pastries of Yann Couvreur but also real food such as zucchini soup, bass and chicken breast open everyday, although its brunch on Sundays, as well as the aforementioned Baieta in the 5th.  In addition, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to Deviant, 39, rue des Petites Ecuries in the 10th, 01.48.24.66.79, closed Sundays and Mondays but open only at night, where for about 35E, this offshoot of Vivant serves up asparagus, coques and chinchard.  His colleague, Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to good quality-price place, Le Layon, 139, rue du Chateau in the 14th, 09.83.36.40.42, with 19.50 and 24.50 lunch menus and 32 and 44E dinner ones for items such as gravlax, lieu jaune and nectarines. 

Le Fooding’s good news this week was the opening of another Mamma pizza place, this at the start-up center, Station F. 

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope, reviewed 5 places, giving a rare 4/5 hearts to L’Ours, 10, rue de l’Eglise in Vincennes, 01.46.81.50.34, closed Sundays and Mondays where for 45 at lunch and 75 and 105 E one dines on « mystery » dishes.  Garnering 2 hearts each were the Israeli Blitz in the 11th ; the steak-oriented Terra, 21, rue des Gravilliers in the 3rd, 01.45.30.02.58, closed Sundays and Mondays, and open only at night, costing about 50E for bacon and onion soup, Galician beef and chocolate tart ; and the reformated Drouant, old address, open 7/7 with lunch menu at 45 and dinner 80E a la carte for items such as pea soup, thick veal liver and a baba.  Getting one heart only was the Texas smoked meat place, Rhino Rouge in the 12th.  His Hache Menu this week covered the well-known Apicius, now under the baton of Mathieu Pacaud. 

The Dossier this week concerned itself with Jean-Francois Piege and his restaurants. 

Also on Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned The Dude mostly positively. 

Thursday in L’Express Styles, Charles Patin O’Coohoon reviewed the plate-sharing above mentioned Terra in the 3rd; the previously mentioned Petit Panisse in the 11th; and Francois-Regis Gaudry covered the creperie Grain Noir in St Malo.

Privacy Policy

John Talbott’s Paris has strict privacy rules.

We do not collect data on anyone or anything, in fact we wouldn’t know how to do it.

We do not publish the names of John Talbott’s dining companions, only vague and sometimes amusing descriptions of their roles/occupations/importance/self-importance, etc.

We do indicate when he eats with his cherished wife of 57 years, whose pen name is Colette.

We do give credit to photographers whose photos we post when say, we have forgotten our nifty Panasonic camera or iPhone.

We do record the decibel level in almost every restaurant we review but do not name the miscreants except to note when they are loud Yankees.

We do post the cost of each meal, always a lunch, and indicate, almost always with a photo, each wine imbibed.

Signed John Andrew Talbott MD

May 25 2018

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 14, 2018

Monday-Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Smael Bouaici and Alexis Chenu described the top terraces: Baltard au Louvre in the 1st, Terrasse de Molitor in the 16th, Vins des Pyrenees in the 4th, Klay St Serveur in the 2nd, Palazzo in the 12th, Chez Julien in the 4th, La Reserve in the 8th, Grand Bleu in the 12th, Wanderlust in the 13th.  

Le Fooding featured Restaurant Jogging in Marseille.

Wednesday, Alice Bosio, Colette Monsat, Emmanuel Rubin and Hugo de Saint Phalle in Figaroscope, listed all the best terraces in Paris, including: the Hotel des Grands Boulevards, 86 Champs-Elysees, Le Breizh Café, Spoon 2, Les Passerelles, Les Grands Verres, La Brasserie d'Aumont, Les Enfants du Marche, Les Fables de la Fontaine, Le Grand Bleu, Le Bar de Biondi, EP7, Roberta Bercy, Beast Belleville, Ristorante National,Baltard au Louvre, Bouillon Pigalle, Le Printemps du GoutLe Bien Venu and The Huxton.

Also Wednesday, Heidi Ellison, in Paris Update revewed the previously mentioned Mumi, which she liked.

And Thursday, Charles Patin O’Coohoon in L’Express wrote up a meal with the newest chef at L’Office in the 9th.

Paris restaurants that are good for adults and children who wish to roam

 A dear friend going to Paris with 16 of her family (the youngest two years old) asked me where to go, so here goes (all are on John Talbott’s Paris or Google so I won’t give coordinates, etc.)

Pirouette in the 1st, near les Halles, not only has outstanding food, in good weather it has tables outside in a traffic-free piazza where kids can run around freely without parents worrying.

The Baltard au Louvre, also in the 1st, not far away, between the American visitors favorite knife and cooking ware shop, Dehillerin, and Francois Pinault's new museum, which also has plenty of tables outside with no traffic and good food.

The soufflé-focused Recamier in the 7th, not far from Bon Marche, is on a blind alley, the rue Recamier, that ends in a lovely little garden, and has lots of tables outside from which kids can escape and run around between savory and sweet soufflés.

Tokyo Eat in the 16th or its downstairs more upscale neighbor Monsieur Bleu faces the Eiffel Tower and while the view is better from Tokyo Eat, the food is better 3 flights down.

Les Climats in the 6th, near the Orsay, has a garden with tables and superb list of Burgundies.  It’s in the former telephone exchange, a photo of which hangs inside.  Superb food, elevated prices.

The Grand Cour in the 4th, is owned/run by the chef Mauro Colagreco from Mirazur in Menton, where I had the best fish of my life.  It’s in a grand court, duh, with tables under umbrellas and is surrounded by a music and ballet school, which can be either soothing or annoying, when the drum class is in session.

Thinking park wise - in the Buttes Chaumont in the 19th, the Pavillon Puebla is good not great.

Also in the Parc Montsouris in the 14th, there is a restaurant called the Pavillion, where outside, kids will have a ball and the food is not half bad.

Kitchen (Ter)re on the Blvd St Germain, has seating on the terrace, eg the sidewalk, which our grandkids found perfect for rope skipping.  The place is run by William Ledeuil, of Ze Kitchen Galerie, our favorite restaurant in Paris.

Speaking of which, Coretta in the 17th, has tables outside and borders the MLK Park and offers some of the best food in Paris at reasonable prices.

Near the Louvre, if you’re thinking of visiting it, in the Tuileries is the Saut de Loup, which has quite pleasant but not mind-blowing food in a bucolic setting with lots of room to roam.  Note: My last meal there was a disaster service-wise.

The Bois de Boulogne has two of our great old favorites, the Pre Catalan and the Grande Cascade, but unless you’re into hedge funds I’m not sure the meals for a family of 16 are affordable.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 7, 2018

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope, reviewed 5 places, giving 2/5 hearts to L’Attache, 52, rue Basfroi in the 11th, 01.45.31.01.22 open every night except Tuesday, costing 20-35E for items such as pollack rillettes, pecorino tarts and pork chops ; the Japanese cheffed and Asian-inclined Coutume Izakaya in the 18th ; and Joel Robuchon’s Dassai in thr 8th, also Japanese themed.  Garnering one heart was le D’Argout in the 2nd and awarded a busted heart was Bao Shelter in the 2nd.  His Hache Menu this week covered the often mentioned Sauvage. 

The Dossier this week concerned itself with street food; sandwiches, poutine and dim sum. 

Also on Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Pirouette finding it lacking. 

John's Top Ten in 2018

As usual, the rules are, only in Paris and surrounds, only meals eaten at new places this year, only at lunch and only supplying the total bill, usually with wine and coffee but not bottled water.

7.9 Mumi

7.6 Sellae

7.5 Grive, Baita

7.4 The Dude, Pianovins

7.3 Bulots Bulots

7.1 Capitaine

7 Automne

6.9 Monsieur

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6.8 Aux Bons Crus

6.7 Fulgurances, Jacopo

6.5 Le Lemarck, Hugo et Co.

6.4 Mokko

6.2 daRock

6 GAG, Maison Breguet, Massale

 

 

5.5 Pied Au Cochon, 14 Paradis

7.9 Mumi

7.6 Sellae

7.5 Grive, Baita

7.4 The Dude, Pianovins

7.3 Bulots Bulots

7.1 Capitaine

7 Automne

6.9 Monsieur

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6.8 Aux Bons Crus

6.7 Fulgurances, Jacopo

6.5 Le Lemarck, Hugo et Co.

6.4 Mokko

6.2 daRock

6 GAG, Maison Breguet, Massale

 

 

5.5 Pied Au Cochon, 14 Paradis

The week of April 30, 2018

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, they reviewed two places already mentioned here: the buffet themed BOULOM in the 18th and the Brazilian Itacoa in the 2nd.

On Tuesday in Le Fooding, they reviewed the already mentioned and reviewed Sauvage in the 6th.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope, reviewed 5 places, giving 2/5 hearts to Heritage, 15, rue Andre-del-Sarte in the 18th, 01.45.27.29.27, closed Sundays and Mondays, where for about 30 E without wine one dines on items such as poireaux, salmon and a tarte tatin ; the Korean Oma in the 9th ; sandwicherie Lamee in the 8th and the Chinese Grand Bol in the 7th.  Garnering one heart was Le Sancerre in the 18th.  His Hache Menu covered NE/SO, in the 9th, where an ex-Top Chef serves up 90 E menus.

The Dossier this week by Alice Boston, Colette Monsat and Hugo de Saint Phalle rated places serving leeks vinaigrette, deeming Christian Contant’s at his Café Constant the best.

Also on Wednesday, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Bar A Iode in the 5th where she got burned by the eperlans.

Thursday in L’Express Styles, Charles Patin O'Coohoon reviewed the new chef Hideo Uemura at the well-known 6 Paul Bert (3/4) and Francois-Regis Gaudry covered the previously mentioned Baita (3/4).

Finally, Saturday in Le Figaro Colette Monsat wrote of the latest honor awarded Christian Constant, Michelin’s “Chef Mentor.”

Pianovins in the 11th: “Good choice, John, really nice.” Photos to follow

7.4 Pianovins, 46, rue Trousseau in the 11th, 01.48.06.95.85, closed Sundays, mondays and Tuesday at lunch (Metro: Ledru Rollin) is in the space previously occupied by first Rino and most recently the Deserteurs, so it has my friend N’s fengshui going for it.  It’s run by two graduates of the Savoy empire, who couldn’t have been nicer.

We started with an amuse of a cream of coques with chive oil and then each had three stalks of al dente white asparagus with a terrific espuma (noted especially by Le Fooding) we soaked up with great crusty bread.

Then we had the main event, two pieces each of perfectly sourced and cooked pintade with an intense sauce; more bread.

Finally we couldn’t resist thick slices of creamy Sancerre cheese followed by pannacotta topped with nice rhubarb.

Our bill, with filtered water (3€), a bottle and glass of wine and two coffees, was 114€?  I did not measure the noise level because there was none.

Go?  Thus is the opposite of Innocence, just great seasonal products cooked beautifully without any frou-frou.  If the bunch around me is any indication (a famous cookbook author, a famed restaurateur and an seasoned entrepreneur/restaurateur), the word is already out.

Mumi in the 1st: Another “undiscovered” treasure, who knew? “It’s quite good, isn’t it?”

So, I asked my planned eating partner where we should go today.  Innocence?  Nope, been. Mumi?  Huh? Never heard of it. Quick to Google, Greek chef, Angelo Vagiotis, others from Porte 12, Thibault Passinge, genius behind it, in particular, prior postings in Greece, NY, Australia, Naples, London.  Interesting. Why not?

7.9 Mumi (MUseum MIle), 14, rue Sauval in the 1st, is indeed located between the Louvre and the new Pinault Museums, 01.40.26.27.54, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Les Halles) has been open 10 months and I’ve heard nothing about it.

After some amuses of Parmesan, red pepper cream, nut crunchy hunk and very good crusty bread with EVOO in a laboratory tube we were ready.

Firsts were beets on a layer of chicken liver, very inventive, and mackerel two ways with sauces and condiments too complex for me to figure out.

Then mains of maigre with leeks and gnocchis and a poitrine of pork with shaved radishes, broccolini and an intense dark sauce.

To finish up, Madame had the chocolate with passion fruit and I had kiwi fruit with a cream inside a collar of chocolate.  And then, oh my, I forget and I didn't write it down.

Our bill, with no bottled but their filtered water, a bottle and 2 glasses of wine and two coffees was 118.00€.  Db’s were controlled at 74.0 but the music went from horrid American to lovely bassa nova, think Getz-Gilberto.

Go?  No question.  Run don’t tarry.  And thanks Chef, for a dazzling meal that tingled the taste buds.

The Dude in the 9th: Wow, "impecable," "bravo Chef."

So you enter and there's this big guy standing there, no, I cannot be and it isn't, but he's pretty close to your memory's version of Jeff Bridges and now you get it.  He's "The Dude."  I know you're not supposed to buy wine because of a clever etiquette but Chateau Mouton-Rothschild did pretty well with its labels, so here we go.

7.4 The Dude, 84, rue du Faubourg St Denis in the 9th, 01.45.89.40.24, closed Mondays and brunch on Sundays (Metro: Gare de l’Est?) is a place I gotta admit I chose because of its name.  One look at the carte, however, and you realize this is no place for slackers and beer drinkers, this is serious food - coquillages with beef - huh?, pain perdu with asparagus- ditto.

 

These two chefs are either going to score big time or crash and burn.

My friend, an ex-Reuters sage, looked at the “menu” and went for it, all 24€ for three dishes; while I tried a la carte which was an easy 27€?  He started with the coquillages and daurade in a slightly spicy sauce and it was wonderful.

Then they brought out my two plates - green asparagus and what underneath? -  pain perdu? - incredible and a poitrine de porc, which is usually in Paris crisp on the outside and tough on the inside.  Oh no, this was silky smooth inside and out.

Then they brought out my friend’s filet mignon of pork which was equally good.

Both if us wound up with chocolate desserts, his called a gateau, mine called warm mousse with pear cubes -which was better? Who knows?

Our bill, once we sorted out a little 30€ error, with a bottle and two glasses of wine and two coffees was 92€.  DB’s got a bit out of hand - 84.3.

Go? Let my friend put it - “this is the most inventive, interesting, creative food we’ve ever had together, John.”   I couldn’t have put it better.  ‘Til next time, Dude!