La Condesa in the 9th popped up unheralded on the rue de Rodier less than a year ago and every time we go, Chef Indira Carillo welcomes us, saunters around, chats everyone up at length and generally doesn’t look like he has a worry in the world. He is the anti-Jego, anti-Bourdain, anti-Ramsey - cool, collected and clever, oh so clever. He never boasts, say of “farm to table, beak to feet, don’t waste the radish tops,” he doesn’t need to, it’s obvious from the plates that come out of the kitchen that there’s a magician behind the curtain.
Once again, let me just post some photos followed by an incomplete description of each.
a nutty wafer “sandwich”
Swiss chard around hake, that’s what my note says, well fish any way
sorrel
watermelon in watermelon juice, ricotta and sumac
rhubarb, salmon, turnip, radish and radish top purée
asparagus and watercress and oh so tasty clam
two breads
oh so tender poularde, cherries, greens of another sort
bread ice cream with sour dough sauce “I swear to Buddha” on chocolate.
Our bill, with three glasses of cremeux offered, 3 lunch “menus”, 1.5 bottles of wine and 3 coffees comes to 168€ or 112€ a couple.
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