John Talbott's Paris

Lorette et les Garçons in the 9th: "A good office lunch place," said my friend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.5 Lorette et le Garcons, 9, rue Saint Lazare in the 9th, 01.42.06.94.98, closed Sunday and Monday (Metro: ND de Lorette), is a place a neighborhood food-spy friend walked by a week ago, which was jumping, and she forbad me going except with her.  Ok, I’m easy.

It’s on a street where literally, every other place is a resto, Turkish, Japanese, Indian, and yes some French.  I entered a tad before her and looked at the menu and carte, oh oh, menu, melon and Port, beef and Roquefort sauce.  Unh, unh.  Carte, hummmm, maybe the chicken but otherwise stick with two firsts.

So that’s the way it was.  I started with the eggs mayo “in the old style,” whatever that is, plus the smoked herring with onions and warm potatoes, as they should be, and she had the farm chicken and fries and greens.  The crowd was 100% certified French office folks, used to such food and happy to have it.

Our bill, ok, I’ll tell you the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth.  And also what my granddaughter should do.  Our bill was 57.50€ for 2 starters and one main, plus 50 cl of red wine, 3 coffees and a veille prune.  But C., forget the prune, and it’s 50€ a couple.  Not bad eh.  And central.

Go?  Read the line above.

Les Affames in the 2nd: A very decent neighborhood bistro.

6.0 Les Affames, 7, rue St Augustin in the 2nd, 01.42.60.22.80, closed Sundays and Monday nights, (Metro: Quatre-Septembre) is a neighborhood ”cantine gastronomique” it says, that a friend who lives nearby touted me onto.  Another friend, also coincidently from the Bay Area, and I went, with no inflated expectations and it met the goal.  I believe its name comes from a Canadian horror film.

For firsts, he had a tuna carpaccio with tiny pieces of orange and fennel and I had a round of boudin noir.

Then for mains, he had an entrecôte of Galice beef and I had two generous pieces of veal Milanese.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To finish up, he had a baba with rum and I had another generous piece of pain perdu.

Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine and three coffees, was 102.50€?

Go again?  Not unless I’m in the area, in which case I’ll remember it.

Reviews of Reviews: The week of September 3rd, 2018

Wednesday in Figaroscope, Alice Bosio and Emmanuel Rubin contributed to a listing of things happening after the rentree, including new restaurants: La Poule au Pot, Zebra, Perruche, Girafe, Double Dragon, Miznon Canal, la Madison Plisson 2, BB, l’Abbesse, Barnard, Beaupassage and places to open afterwards.  

And Emmanuel Rubin testing 5 new restaurants, gave 3/5 hearts to the aforementioned Zebra in the 16th and 2 each to V(ivre) Saint Martin, 60 rue de Lancry in the 10th, closed Sunday dinner, Monday and Tuesday lunch, where for about 45€ (lunch menus at 39 and 59, 65 for 6 plates at diner and 98€ 6 plates plus wine pairing) one dines on items such as carpaccio of veal tongue, bouillabaisse Friday and a dessert chariot, the 2nd creperie Breizh Cafe Montorgueil in the 2nd, and the wellknown La Lorraine in the 8th.  Garnering one heart was the Asiatic Mian Fan in the 2nd.  

Rubin also went in his Hache Menu to the aforementioned Poule au Pot, which he says to go to because it’s the rentree.  

Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat also tested many Pasteis de Nata, declaring that the best can be found at Comme a Lisbonne in the 4th.

Thursday in L’Express Styles, Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed the Mercerie Mullot, recently taken over by Benoit Reix, “king of bistros,” rating it 3 out of 4. It is at 19, rue Bréa in the 6^th, 01.43.26.08.06, where the lunch formula is 38 € (4 plats) and dinner formula = 60 € (6 plats) a la carte : 40-50 €, closed Sundays and Mondays.  Charles Patil O’Coohoon reviewed the Café Marmot, 9, rue de Trévise, in the 9^th, closed Sundays, 01.47.70.68.76 where the formula is 14,5 €- 17 € a la carte : 30 € and the previously mentioned Zebra in the 16^th. 

Saturday, in Figaro, Colette Monsat summarized the surprising number of well known chefs opening new places this fall, including Ducasse Sur Seine, Rostang au Train Bleu, Marx & Anton at the Tour Eiffel, Darrozeat Chez Jioa, Gagnaire at the nouveau Gaya, David Bizet at Taillevent, Sedefdjian at Chez Bo, as well as the first French Eataly, and lesser known folks at Beefbar, Perruche, Zebra, Dutuit, Abysse, Edern Substance and Rooster.

Sunday, in the jdd femina, J.S. reviewed the previously mentioned Robert and in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau covered the Italian Tripletta Gaite (7/10), the asiatic Double Dragon (8) and the previously mentioned Yard in the 11th (8).

Yard in the 11th: 4 years later, after new paint, still good price/quality.

7.2 Yard, 6, rue Mont-Louis in the 11th, 01.40.09.70.30 (Metro: Philippe August), closed weekends, is a place I reported on in 2014 as having interesting food at a fine price/quality ratio, and not much has changed except some upgrading of the paint and furnishings.

The menu is 2-2-2 for 22€ and my friend and I split the choices down the middle.

He started with a corn soup with espilette which was wonderfully creamy and I had ouefs mayo with superb mayo.

Then he had the cod with mustard grains-seeds and I had a very nice echine of pork with fresh raw mushroom slices.  PS The bread is superb.

To finish up we split the two desserts: a fig not peach tart and a chocolate scoop.  Both worthy.

With a bottle of Beaujolais Villages, no bottled water a tea and a coffee, our bill was 65€?

Go?  It’s on the list of recs  for my granddaughter who will be looking for bargains next month.  An added inducement is its proximity to Pere Lachaise and the everpopular tomb of Jim Morrison.

Zeyer in the 14th: a Dome Brasserie, Just that. No more. No less.

6.1 Le Zeyer, 67 rue d’Alesia in the 14th, 01.45.40.43.88 (Metro: Alesia), open 7/7, is a place my old French friend suggested near his digs for a Sunday lunch when I pressed him to name where he went with his kids for fun.  Only on receiving the bill did I grasp that it was the third place to the big Dome and Bistro du Dome Montparnasse, the latter of which I like quite a lot.  As I walked by the spread of shellfish in front, I fixed on a few oysters and indeed, on the menu Zeyer (43€) 6 such bivalves were waiting for me.

My friend ordered the St Pierre (which he called John Dory showing off his English), with risotto surrounded by sliced radishes and I had an entrecôte cooked blue which was fine without all the cooked onions and peppers on top.  The frites that came with it were the usual in Paris, which means soggy, not crisp.

Then with my “menu” I got a creme brûlée which we both had 1/3rd of.

Our bill, with a bottle of Chateldon and 50cl of Gamay from the Loire, plus two coffees, was 96.20€. Db’s = 81.3

Go again?  Hey, this was just the perfect nearby brasserie to catch up with an old pal after many years apart.  The company, service and ambiance far outweighed any complaints about the food.

Bleu in the 6th: a perfect place for grilled fish and meat for my wonderful backpacking granddaughter next month.

5.7 Bleu (Grille), 119, Blvd de Montparnasse in the 6th, 01.42.79.06.80, open 7/7, (Metro: Vavin) is a place I’ve been hankering to visit even though I have a perfectly fine rotisserie on my street.  Why?  I dunno, it sounded versatile, reasonable, open all the time, etc.

I got there quickly today, traffic being manageable and spied a banquette inside although the large terrace outside was tempting but had uncomfortable looking chairs.  I ordered a glass of Chardonnay, the real French stuff not the California type, 3.20€! Alllllrght! 

My friend arrived and we tried to catch up after the long summer but, very nicely, the staff wanted us to order.

First off, like the Relais d’Entrecote you get a salad as a first, in this case a frisée salad, whether you want it or not, but indeed, we wanted it and it was better than ok.  Then my friend had tuna and I two huge pork ribs, perfectly cooked and crispy skinned, with between us, pathetic fries, good Provencal tomatoes and great spinach.  I was offered a number of sauces from Bernaise to catsup, and stammered “Diable” but the waitress suggested "Apicius," like from Roman times, although this had star anise.  It was perfect.

Our bill with a bottle of Gaillac, Perrier and due espressi was 80.10€?  Db’s not worth measuring.

Go?  As I indicated, one of my precious grandkids will be here next month and this would be a perfect place anytime at the price/quality ratio.

Zebra, ex-Zebra Square, in the 16th: I like to be nice but....sometimes the truth will out.

5.5 Zebra, ex-Zebra Square, 3, place Clément Ader in the 16th, 01.44.14.91.91, (RER: Maison de Radio France) open 7/7 7h30-midnight which should trip off some claymore mines in your head, is a place that has gone through all sorts of owners and chefs since it opened decades ago, but the positive press, including someone I tend to trust, Emmanuel Rubin, prompted me to go with my friend who works nearby today.  Well, first a little diversion (You don’t need to read, go to the end like you do with mysteries).

Context: So, I’ve often mentioned Randy de Paris, who writes a good blog, Paris Missives, who is a great friend and supporter, and when I started eating with him, I was of the mind to judge only the food, regardless if it was served on butcher paper, or Louis 14th settings, while he argued restaurants should be judged on the “total experience,” i.e., welcome, decor, ambiance, food, check, etc. etc.  Ok.  I’ve slowly come over to his point of view.  A prime example: today at Zebra, much touted by the French press.

As I do about once a year, I'll show you how I arrive at my rating, 10 being super, 1 being bad.

10 Welcome

10 Seating

11 Decor/setting and manager with black suit and white shoes, extra point!

10 instant attention

10 quick service

1 Intrusive awful music (db’s = 75)

8 Wine offerings and advice

3 Rich American beached blonde types from the 16th

7 Food

2 Price/quality according to the Pierre 45 scale

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5.5 right? (72 divided by 10 = 5.5) Hey, Tom Lehrer was my Math 101 section teacher.

To start off, we sort of shared a cromesqui of tête de veau, lots of meat, no juice which I expect but nice frisée salad like Aux Lyonnais used to put out.

Then my friend, who puts up with all my nonsense, as does my wife, had a nice piece of daurade with veggies including whole garlic cloves and I had a tartare of boeuf which our great waiter fixed like days of old, spicy and perfectly made, but with soggy fries and only ok salad.

Then we shared a portion of pain perdu with sauce a part, which was quite ok.

Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine, no bottled water, but 2 coffees, was 151€ or 151€ a couple.

Go?  I love to dispute the big boys, who tout places like this, the Poule au Pot and Darroze.  But no, not when there’s a greater place on the 2nd floor of the Radio France monument facing you called Radio Eat.

Sauvage in the 6th: Bigger, Better, Bonnier than across the street.

Pre: in January 2015 I came to Sauvage’s prior incarnation across the street which I liked more than well-enough (6.5/10) so when two friends flew in from the west coast and suggested the new version near their hotel, I figured we’d give it a shot.

7.5 Sauvage, 55, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th is in the old Marlotte space and still has its sign so don’t be fooled (Metro: St. Placide), closed weekends, 01.45.48.86.79.  The rooms, tables and carte are much bigger than before and there’s no sense of being tightly crammed in.

I knew I wanted the most pricy dish on the carte (35€, the pigeon)and so held off and let my friends go at the sardines in an espilette sauce as a first.

Then Madame had a lovely piece of lotte which came with - of all things - nectarine slices and tomatoes - sounds crazy, but it really worked. M. had two generous pieces of pork, beautifully cooked with - of all things - figs and eggplant, but it really worked.  And I had my beloved pigeon that came with - of all things a large beet and leaves, and it really worked.

To finish we all shared in a mirabelle/savory dessert that held it’s own with the prior winners.

Our bill, with a bottle of Loire gamay and flat water, plus two coffees, was 153€ or 102€ a couple.

Go?  You bet, despite the sometimesnoisy patrons (dB = 81.8).  This was some of the most interesting food combinations of the year.

Robert in the 11th: “very pleasant, John.”

6.5 Robert, 32, rue de la Fontaine au Roi in the 11th (Metro: Goncourt),  01.43.57.20.29, closed Sundays and Mondays is a place I’ve been meaning to go to for a while, having experienced the chef at Au Passage, but well, never got around to it til today.  The front is as described by others, completely unfinished that could house an ancient metal shop or failed bookstore but inside is ultramodern and welcoming.

My friend and I looked at the carte (2 dishes 21€, 3=25€) and he went for the haddock with aioli and salicornes and I the pate of pork and veal with a green bean chutney, a really different touch.

Then we both had the farm chicken (3+€) with great corn and tiny girolles on a "pancake" of rosti, and finished up with a chocolate cake and almond sorbet.

With a bottle and glass of wine, (which the som warned us was light and petillante, which was exactly what I wanted), a bottle of Evian, 2 coffees and very good bread, our bill was 96€.

Go? It’s kind of a nice neighborhood place but not exciting enough to track across town.  Db’s= 80.6.

Le Vent d’Armor in the 5th: Holy Gazzoli, this place is Divellec without the insanity.

7.9 Le Vent d’Armor, 25, Quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.46.34.50.99, closed weekends and Monday lunch, (Metro: nah, use a bus) is a place that got a query on Chowhound France (my other cyberhome) asking if anyone else had been there, it seemed like Divellec with easier prices.  Well, it sure is.

Both the chef and front-man come from there and I suspect the place was jam packed with clients from their days in the 7th.

I entered way earlier than my dining partner and since one of my nick names on Chowhound is “Le venerable” had a glass of Chablis of the same name and sipped and read the papers.

My coconspirator came in and was recognized immediately and kisses were shared all around.  They started us off with what I thought was a soup of coques, with my deafness and miserable French, but really was white beans and bacon cream.

The “menu” was 36€ and my choice, a cassolette of langoustines was 35€ so I was perfectly happy to poach on my friend’s 3 courses, which started off with some nicely sautéed mackerel that came with a lot of nicely dressed “grass”, her description, not mine.

Then she had a rather large portion of perfectly cooked lieu jaune with veggies and I had the langoustines sans truffles in a sauce that both of us soaked up with the quite good bread (and butter).

For dessert, she had two scoops of ice cream, I was especially fond of the mango, and then mignardises that were most generous and tasty.

Our bill, with a bottle and glass of venerable Chablis and a bottle of Chateldon and 2 coffees, was 125€?  DB’s equaled 88,6 (a bit to much for my poor ears.)

Go?  You have to ask?  Go back and read it again.