7.0 Contraste, 18, rue d’Anjou in the 8th, (Metro: Madeleine) 01.42.65.08.36, closed weekends is the second restaurant of Stephane Manigold (after Substance) and is equally as impressive. It is beautiful inside and the leather-aproned waitstaff is friendly, eager and helpful. It is pricey, but 35€ for two courses on the lunch menu and 39€ for three and wines start in the 40’s.
I debated ordering two courses on the interesting carte (the two chefs are from Brittany and Catalonia) but really liked the sound of the menu, which it turned out, my former website cohost, did as well. After a couple of amuses, one amazing slice of marinated cuke with roquefort and presentation of delicious bread on a strip of cork bark, we had eggs from the farm and sea, colored with beets with smoked eel, topped with sliced poutargue - wow! The main course, beef cheeks with carrots two ways, were less wowful after that beginning and a bit tough but fine. Finally we had a complex dessert consisting of caramel, chocolate and peanuts and some mignardises.
Our bill, with a bottle and glass of wine, bottled water (7€) and two coffees, was 152€. Db’s = 80.3
Go? For the 8th, amidst all the ‘wicheries, sushi joints, etc this is exciting and serious food.
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