Pre: I have been several times to Les Climats since it opened 6 years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it so when I learned a new chef Emmanuel Kouri had taken over I was eager to see what gave. However, an article by star reporter Emmanuel Rubin 2 weeks ago scared the bejesus out of me; 693E for 4 diners and the fact that 60% of his review dwelt with the Art Nouveau decor.
7.5 Les Climats, 41 rue de Lille, in the 7th, 01.58.62.10.08, closed Sunday and Monday, (Metro: Rue du Bac), appears the same as before, from voiturier to 3000 bottle Burgundy wine list and they have a very nice choice of dishes on their 49E lunch menu. Both of us wanted the same thing so we went for it:
They started us off with foccacia and amuses, one of which was a Japanesy ravioli like savoury of salmon eggs, tapioca and a cream of cauliflower; then terrific bread and butter, not housemade but seemingly so; followed by sauteed cepes tops with raw sliced mushrooms of Paris on a perfect egg with a rich bouillon; a civet of biche with another rich but peppery sauce; terminating with a chintzy portion of cheeses, a complex dessert of ice cream, mandarines and squash of all things, and mignardises.
Our bill with a perfectly fine bottle of Epineuil, was 40 some Euros, no where near Rubin's 218E; was 152E a couple. I didn't measure the decibels,having commented on them before, bu it got pretty noisy, and that from, as far as I could tell, all French patrons.
Go back? As my fellow blogger said "this goes on my list for a festive dining spot," to which I would add, "and I've loved eating in the garden on nice days"
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