7.2 Bistro S, 7 rue Saint-Nicolas in the 12th, 01.43.43.49.40, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Ledru Rollin) got my attention when Rubin gave it a rare 3 hearts and I learned that the chef, one Shimpei Oie, had passed through the kitchens of Stella Maris and Le Volnay. My friend, the ultra-flanneur, had snared a banquette as requested and we buckled in for the ride.
The menu at 29€, even on Saturday, for 2-3-3 choices was intriguing. The fit guy started with a soup of sweet potatoes that he suspected had a hint of brown butter and there ensued a long discussion with our two charming front room folks, consulting the chef and reporting back. I was just as happy with my smoked tuna tartare covered with spicy greens and black sesame with an egg.
Then he had a piece of seared seriole fish, translation = greater amberjack (huh?) - yellowtail (double huh?) - on a mushroomy risotto and I had lamb two ways (loved the poitrine-like one, hated the confited or 7-hour one), both our mains, my friend noted, were unusually plated on warm dishes.
He wound up the meal with a mandarine/cream parfait and I had a dark chocolate quenelle, both superb.
Our bill, with a pot Lyonnais of a nice Cotes du Rhône, a small bottled water and two coffees, was 88€. Db’s not worth measuring.
Go? Absolutely, no ands, ifs or buts.
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