7.6 Origines by Julien Boscus, 6, rue de Ponthieu in the 8th, 09.86.41.63.04, closed weekends (Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt) is the new restaurant of the former chef at Les Climats and is strikingly familiar (the logo, huge wine list, dishes) yet different (mystery door like the original Spring or the Atelier de Joel R., less space and thus higher noise level).
I, like everyone else who hasn’t been there before, walked around the block trying to find the door, until the maitre saw me and waves at the magic sensor to let you enter. From then on everything is clear.
My longtime co-eater friend and I both saw merit in the 44€ 3-course menu, which started off with radishes in a cervelle de canut sauce, no, not brains of King Canute, but a complex sauce of fromage blanc, chives and shallots. “What’s with the French and radishes?” He asked. I had no answer. Ok. Then, he had a starter of roasted vegetables and citrus with house made ricotta and I had cold mussels mixed with what I swear were diced potatoes but supposedly were really cauliflower bits in a curry mousseline sauce topped with dill - very very nice!
Then he had the cod, not raie as originally on the menu, facon Grenobloise with capers, yuzu and spinach and I had the game of my dreams - a traditional palombre (wood pigeon, ring dove) tourte, enriched by gamey foie gras and Rouennaise sauce with seasonal salad, including poire William slices.
We shared plates of St. Nectare and a vacherin Laura which seemed like a pretty usual wonderful kiwi meringue vacherin.
Our bill with bottles of wine and water and two coffees, was 142€. Db’s were a loud 80.
Go? I rated it 7.6; and when I got home saw that I had given Les Climats the same score last week. Creepy eh? Anyway, yes, go!
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