Oh John
Why are you there?
Why, when you eat terrific oysters in Baltimore and sublime lobsters in Maine all year?
Why, when you could be at Gagnaire, etc., do you go to a stripped-down wall oyster etc., joint?
Interesting you should mention Gagnaire, this place serves the same Freres Besson oysters they do.
Plus I do have friends and readers who say:
“Hey, were eating at Chez l'Ami Jean tonight, so we just want a light lunch, oysters and stuff.”
Ok.
8.0 Joysters, 7, rue Cadet (a pedestrian street for those of us handicapped), in the 9th, (Metro: Cadet), 01.73.71.49.19, open 7/7, is the third place Mathieu Darmont has opened in the recent past, following Tous and Ensemble and I went wanting a shellfish kick on a dreary dank day and who should help me up the step but himself, asking how I am, etc.
Ok, so does that pose a conflict of interest? I guess. But I declare it now. I loved Tous and Ensemble and Darmont has a rare flair for opening new places that meet perfect niches in Paris’ eating spectrum.
I knew what I wanted even before I saw the carte - 6 Specials #3 from the Freres Besson and bulots with flavored mayonnaise and some white wine. Right?
What could be simpler? (Now, I maintain there are lots of dishes I can make better than any restaurant, among them are bulots, but these exceeded mine. And the Besson Brothers oysters M. told me, only are served at a few places, like Chez Gagnaire. Ok.)
Darmont offered me a bit of fish soup, which on reflection, I should have tried, but I was so focused on the incredible oysters and lush bulots that I stupidly resisted.
My bill, with a half bottle of Reuilly made for Joysters, was 37.50€ and I fully expected to take the rest of the bottle home to have with the gravlax I ordered to take-away as well, but it turned out the salmon was offered. DB’s were 66.4 of Neil Young and Louis Armstrong era music so I was happy.
Go? As I said, it’s a niche place, totally local clientele, no frou-frou, 20-course, raw rabbit food with pony-tailed waitresses, etc. For that, please go elsewhere TA steers you to. Save this for pure seafood delights.
Wow, John, an 8.0 for an oyster joint? Now, I need to book my next flight! And, if I can't get in, I'm knocking on your door for bulots. Happy holidays!
Posted by: Mark H. | December 04, 2019 at 12:32 PM