John Talbott's Paris

Review of reviews – The week of Sept 9, 2019

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2 hearts to Mordu, 2, rue Félibien in the 6^th, 01.42.39.89.27 closed Sunday and Monday but soon open 7/7, in the old J’Go space where the lunch menu is 30 € for items such as fried eggplant, grilled pig’s feet and house made sorbets as well as Le Gallopin Rotisserie, 40, rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires in the 2^nd, 01.53.4.84.10, closed Sunday nights where for about 30 € one dines on items such as oeufs mayo, beef ribs and crème caramel. Garnering one heart only were the Bobo kebab Grille Montorgueil in the 2^nd and Le Colvert in the 6^th. His Hache Menu dealt with the Coucou Café in the 9^th.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reported on the Italian Pastore.

Reviews of Reviews: The week of September 1st, 2019

Sunday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau gave 7/10 to the pizzeria Uno in the 1st, 8 to le Petit Keller, 13, rue Keller in the 11th, 01.43.55.90.54, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 23 to 35€ featuring salmon, fried artichokes and octopus; and the previously reviewed Sauvage in the 6th.

Tuesday in Le Fooding, they reviewed Cuisine, 50, rue Condorcet in the 9th, 01.44.63.75.64, closed weekends and Monday lunch, where for 16-35€ one dines on items such as a tataki of veal, monkfish liver and fruits.

Wednesday, Figaroscope’s Emmanuel Rubin resumed reviewing 5 new restaurants giving 3 hearts to Sylvain Sendra’s newest venture, Fleur de Pave, already reviewed here. Garnering two hearts was Ma Cocotte aux Halles, Passage de la Canopee in the 1st, 01.77.37.77.37, open 7/7, with menus at 19.90€ lunch and 29€ dinner, featuring items such as gazpacho, veal Marengo and French toast. Three places merited only one heart: the Grand Cafe d’Athenes in the 10th (Greek food), Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond and the Brasserie du Louvre - Bocuse, both in the 1st. His Hache Menu featured Solstice in the 5th, also just reviewed here.

There was a “Dossier” this week focused on the best Swedish roules a la cannelle, awarding Mamiche in the 9th, top ranking. The was also a two page feature on all the new restaurants opening from now to 2020.

Thursday, in L’Express Styles they announced that Les Climats had a new chef, a former second at Eric Frechon’s and that Cuisine had a new “skin.”

Reviews of reviews: The weeks of July, 2019

Wednesday July 3rd, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Le Recepteur, 3, avenue Théophile Gautier in the 16th, 01.42.88.56.46, open 7/7, running you about 42 E for items such as sea bass tartare, hamburger and fries and cheesecake.  The following week, she covered the previously mentioned Mokko in the 18th.  Then July 17th, she reviewed the previously mentioned Aux Crus de Bourgogne.The following week she reviewed the previously mentioned Marco & Co in the 13th. Winding up the month she reviewed the second Soma in the 9th.

Thursday, in l’Express Styles, July 4th they reviewed La Pince à Cornichons, 20, rue du Croissant in the 2nd, 01.42.36.38.90 closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 14-16 at lunch for items such as taboule, beef tataki and crème brulee and Sylvain Sendra’s Fleur de Pavé, 5, rue Paul Lelong, in the 2nd, 01.40.26.38.87, closed weekends, lunch menu 45, degustation 95 and a la carte 90 E for items such as sardines ceviche, mixed vegetables and an orange dessert.  July 9th they gave 3/4 to Le Coucou, 14, rue Bochart de Saron in the 9th, 01.48.74.15.78 open Sunday-Tuesday 9-4 and Wednesday-Saturday 9-11 pm, costing 13 € for the plat du jour or 18 € with an entrée or dessert), weekend brunches are 28 €.

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 24, 2019

Wednesday Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed La Bécane à Gaston, 24, rue Lucien Sampaix in the 10th, 09.80.73.22.98, open Wednesday-Thursday, for dinner only, Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch, costing 24 at lunch and a la carte 43 E for items such as asparagus, pintade and cherry clafoutis.

Thursday, in l’Express Styles, they reviewed Mingway in the Centre National de la Danse in Pantin, lunch weekdays and brunch on Saturday, where for 16 E one gets three courses with items such as white asparagus and a filet of beef with beets and spelt.

Sunday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed three places already mentioned: Chinaski in the 5th (7.5/10), MOB Hotel in 93 (6.5) and Le Petit Pergolese in the 16th (7).

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 17, 2019

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin did his end of the academic year summary listing twenty restaurants and the (alternatives): Les Cuistots Migrateurs (Bonne Aventure), Fogon Ultramarinos (Tigermilk), Pardi (Badaboum, Octopus (Brasserie Paris Longchamps), Laperouse (le Ran), Coco (l'Apicius), Beau Regard (Pierro TT), Brasserie Bellanger (l'Hotel Drouot), Marso & Co. (le Malro), Tontine (le Creatures), Affinite (Rooster), Cheval d'Or (Petit Bao, Kodawari Tsukiji), Yaya Secretan (Citron), Aux Crus de Bourgogne (Mamie), La Bicyclette (Le Maquis), La Regalade du Faubourg (Brasserie Lutetia), Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse (Bouillion Julien), Adar (Daily Syrien Veggie), Anona (Sergent Recruteur), Pastificio (Pastore, Eataly).

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Trois B.

Thursday, Francois-Regis Gaudry, in L'Express Styles, gave 3/4 to the Solstice, 45, rue Claude Bernard in the 5th closed Sunday and Monday, 06.52.31.83.84, serving items such as poularde, sweetbreads and a strawberry dessert for 65 (4 dishes), 90 (5 dishes) at dinner and 35 E (two dishes) at lunch.

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 10, 2019

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin rated two restaurants 3/5 hearts – the well known Laperouse, reprised by the Moma group with “sulfureuse” prices – 100-180 E – open nights except Sunday and the previously mentioned Chinaski in the 5^th.  Getting 2 hearts was Mar’co, 4, rue de la Soudiere in the 1^st, 01.44.82.03.74, closed Sundays and open 9:30-7 PM, costing about 40 E for a vegetable Croque-madame, salmon and Mont Blanc.  1 heart went to Avocateria in the 2^nd and a broken heart and unpleasant words for Monak in the 16^th.  His Hache Menu was about the return of Alberto Herraiz to Fogon Ultramarinos in the 7th.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the previously mentioned Le Maquis in the 18th.

Reviews of reviews: The week of June 3, 2019

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin rated one restaurant 3/5 hearts – Anona, 80, blvd des Batignolles in the 17th, closed Sunday and Monday, 01.84.79.01.15, where for 25 and 29 at lunch ot 75 and 95 at dinner or 50 E a la carte one dines on items such as chinchard, stuffed tomato and picanha. He awarded two hearts each to two places, the aforementioned Le Maquis in the 18th and Augustin, Marchand’vins, 26, rue des Grands-Augustins in the 6th, 09.81.21.76.21, closed Mondays, costing one 25-45 E for sausage, smoked salmon and cheese. One heart each went to the Cezanne Brasserie in the 16th and Wholywood in the 2nd. His Hache Menu covered Kodawari Tsujiki in the 2nd, termed “Disney-Tokyo.”

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Padum Padum in the 18th.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 27, 2019

Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Julie Gerbert reviewed the previously mentioned neobistrot Le Maquis in the 18th.

Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope, reviewed five places, awarding 3/5 hearts to two: the well-known Petit Pergolese in the 16th now running 50-80 E for items such as soft eggs, chateaubriand and iced nougat and Les Peres Siffleurs, 15, rue Gerbert in the 15th, 01.48.28.75.63, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, running you 50 E for items such as eggs with mushrooms, quail and a savarin.  Garnering two hearts were the Israeli/Middle Eastern Adar in the 2nd and the Italian Fratelli Castellano in the 15th.  Bringing up the rear with one heart was the British chain Korean On the Bab in the 1st.  His Hache Menu covered the well known Sergent Recruteur in the 4th running one 120-150 E a la carte at dinner.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in her Paris Update reviewed the aforementioned l'Office in the 9th.

Thursday in L'Express Styles, they reviewed four places already mentioned: Willette, Tintamarre, Chinaski and Aux Crus de Bourgogne.

Friday in FoodandSens, Sophie Brissaud reviewed the well known Dominique Bouchet in the 8th.

Sunday, in the jdd, Aurelie Chaigneau reviewed 3 places: Polpo Plage in Levallois-Perret, 01.76.41.04.64, open Friday and Saturday evenings and Sundays, costing 20-25 E for crab meat and lobster rolls (6.5/10); the Tibetian Bar a Momos in the 12th (6.5); and Chameleon (7.5), 70, rue Rene Boulanger in the 10th, 01.42.08.99.41, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, with lunch formulas at 18 and 25 and dinner about 38 E for items such as swordfish carpaccio, echine de cochon and avocado mousse.

Reviews of reviews: The week of May 20th, 2019

Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 places rating two as 3/5 hearts: the previously mentioned Bicyclette in the 19th and Celine Pham's (ex-Fulgurances) Tontine in the 11th, serving Viet-Asian food.  Getting 2 hearts were Garcon!, a gastro-cafe, in the Cafe Trama space at 83, rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th, 01.43.22.68.13, closed Sundays and Mondays, where for 30-40 E one dines on items such as palourdes, a Croque-Monsieur and tarte tropezieme.  One heart each went to the Yankee Hells Chicken in the 2nd and the Sichuan Sucrepice in the 5th.  His Hache Menu concerned the cinema-bar-resto Beau Regard in the 6th which has 80 covers.

On Thursday, in L'Express Styles they reviewed 3 places: the previously mentioned Tigermilk, Guilo Pizza and Le Maquis, 53 rue des Cloys in the 18th, closed Sundays and Monday lunch, where for 16-18 for lunch and 33-37 E dinner one dines on items such as grey shrimp, cod and a Paris-Brest (that intel from Le Fooding).

Catching up with Sophie Brissaud of FoodandSens, on May 10th she announced that the well known Chez Michel's piano was now under the command of the Japanese chef Masahiro Kawai.

 

Reviews of reviews: the week of May 13, 2019

Tuesday, Elena Di Benedetto in Le Fooding reviewed Chinaski, 46, rue Daubenton in the 5th, closed Monday and Tuesday, 01.73.74.74.06, where for 16-35€ one dines on asparagus, extra fresh, raw chinchard or Tarn pork.

Wednesday Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope wrote up 5 new places, giving 2 hearts to Tomy Gosset’s newest location, Marso & Co. 16, rue Vulpian in the 13th, 01.45.87.37.00, closed weekends, where a lunch menu is 20, menu-carte 35 and carte 35-45€ for items such as chorizo brochettes, farm chicken and panna cotta; Trois B. 48, ave Jean-Jaures in the 19th, closed Sundays and Mondays, 01.42.00.22.01, lunch formulas 15 and 18, 25-35€ at dinner for boulettes of everything from pork to beef; the South American Tigermilk in the 2nd; and the third Daily Syrien Veggie in the 10th.  Meriting one heart is Aux Crus de Bourgogne in the 2nd.  His Hache Menu covered the new resto in the opera, Garnier, Coco.

Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed the already mentioned Bicyclette in the 19th.

Margaret Kemp in Bonjour Paris reviewed the Fabrique de Bouchons, 17, rue Brochant in the 17th, 01.58.59.06.47, closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Mondays, where one pays 20€ for 2 courses or 23 for three.